But the driver was urging the necessity of pushing on, so all took their
seats again, and in due course reached Paestum. The girls had, of course,
seen photographs of the place beforehand, yet even these had hardly
prepared them for the stately magnificence of the three great temples
that suddenly broke upon their vision. Their immense size, their
loneliness, far from town or city, and their glorious situation betwixt
hill and blue sea, almost took the breath away, and filled the mind with
glowing admiration for the genius of Greek architecture. The rows of
fluted Doric columns, tapering symmetrically towards the roof, were like
beautiful lily stems supporting flowers, the mellow yellow tone of the
stone was varied by the ferns and acanthus which grew everywhere around,
and the sunshine, falling on the rows of delicate shafts, seemed to
linger lovingly, and invest them with a halo of golden light.
"What must these temples have been when the world was young!" said Miss
Morley. "If we could only get a glimpse of them as they were more than
two thousand years ago. Think what processions must have paced down
those glorious aisles. Priests and singers and worshipers all crowned
with flowers. The rose gardens of Paestum used to be famous among the
Roman poets. The marvel is that the stones have stood all these
centuries of time. It seems as if Art and Beauty have triumphed over
decay."
The party had brought lunch baskets, and they now sat down on the steps
of the Temple of Neptune to enjoy their picnic. Fortunately the grounds
of the ruins were enclosed by railings, so they were preserved from the
attentions of a group of beggar children, who had greeted the arrival of
the char-a-banc with outstretched palms and torrents of entreaties for
"soldi," and who were hanging about the gate evidently waiting for any
fresh opportunity that might occur of asking alms. Four lean and hungry
dogs, however, had managed to slip into the enclosure, and made
themselves a nuisance by sitting in front of the picnickers and keeping
up an incessant chorus of loud barking. The girls tried to stop the
noise by throwing them fragments of sandwiches, but their appetites were
so insatiable that they would have consumed the whole luncheon and have
barked for more, so Miss Morley, tired of the noise, finally chased them
off the premises with her umbrella.
"They're as bad as wolves. And as for the children they're shameless.
They've been taught to look upon tourists as their prey. If you go near
the gate dozens of little hands are poked through the railings and an
absolute shriek of 'soldi' arises. It spoils people's enjoyment to be so
terribly pestered by beggars. And the more you give them the more they
ask."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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