The five-mile drive from Castellamare was part of the fun of the
excursion, but Pompeii was, of course, the main object, and there was
much excitement when they at last drew up at the great iron gate. Miss
Morley bought tickets for the party, and they were assigned a guide, a
smiling Italian of superlative politeness, bearing a badge with the
number 24 upon it.
"I asked for one who could speak English, but they're all out with other
visitors," explained Miss Morley. "Never mind. It's a good opportunity
of testing your Italian, and I can interpret if you don't understand."
In spite of the lantern-slides which they had previously been shown,
the girls had come with varying expectations of what they were to see.
Some imagined they would walk into a Roman city exactly as it stood when
buried by the ashes of the great eruption of A.D. 79; others thought
there would be a few interesting things peeping up here and there amid
mounds of cinders. None had imagined it would be so large.
As a matter of fact the remains are simply the bare ruins of a town
destroyed by burning ashes, which have been extricated from the rubbish
accumulated during more than seventeen centuries. The paved streets and
the roofless and broken walls of the houses still remain, with here and
there some building that by a fortunate chance escaped, either in whole
or in part, the general catastrophe, and suffice to show the general
style and beauty of the Graeco-Roman architecture of the first century.
The guide marshaled his party along, pointing out to them the various
objects of interest that had been excavated, the beautiful marble
drinking-fountain, the marble counters of the shops, identical with
those still used in Southern Italy, the wine jars of red earthenware,
the hand-mills for grinding corn, the brick ovens, or the vaults where
wine had been stored. They went into the site of the ancient market, and
the Forum and several temples, and walked up long flights of steps and
admired rows of broken columns, and saw the public swimming-baths with
their tasteful wall decorations and the niches where the bathers had
placed their clothes, and they admired the law-courts, and marveled at
the great theater that had been wont to hold five thousand spectators.
The general impression was one of utter desolation. The mighty ruins lay
in the bright Italian sunshine, and, close above, Vesuvius frowned over
the scene, as if still watching the result of his deadly handiwork. Who
had lived in those blackened fire-swept houses, and walked in those
grass-grown streets? It was difficult to imagine the busy thronging
crowds that once must have peopled all these silent haunts, where the
only signs of life were the little green lizards that darted over the
crumbling walls.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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