The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
History
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
Early on ye 19th I set off and crossed the Po at Lagoscuro, and from
thence got to Rovigo, a dreadful road and two bad _barques_, one
over the canal Bianco, and the other across the Adigio. Rovigo, the
birthplace of Manfredini, a wretched, straggling town. We reached
Padua at night. I have been there before, but I possess a very faint
remembrance of the place. I have just heard that the unhappy phantom
of royalty, Louis XVIII., has been compelled to quit the Venetian
territory. I remained at Padua several days. Miss Bowdler and Lady
Herries lodged in the same hotel. Ld. Holland overtook me from Florence.
We went to the monastery of Praia, a rich Benedictine order. The
heat of the weather and badness of the road had fatigued us, and we
asked permission to enter the sacristy and refresh ourselves. The lay
brother, who is the porter, repulsed us with harshness, and refused us
admission within the walls, adding that water was the only hospitality
afforded by the monks. On my return to Padua I wrote a letter of
complaint to the Abbot, who answered it with civility, and promised to
reprimand the insolence of the porter.
I went the next evening to see the Villa Quirini, remarkable for
possessing some of the oldest Egyptian monuments in Europe if not
coeval with the Pyramids at least so Dancarville, the learned
antiquary, assured me. He pretends to be so much _au fait_ of
them, that he even shows a mark made by a soldier of the army of
Cambyses; but the reveries of antiquaries are absurd. The French have
broken into the plain of Piémont by way of Nice, and have gained a
great victory over the Austrians. Buonaparti [_sic_] is the French
commander.
They left Padua on April 24, and took the road to Trieste.
From Trieste we went through Carniola, Carinthia, Styria, by way of
Laibach, Marburg, Gratz, and Bruck to Vienna. I stayed a few days only
at Vienna, dined at Sir Morton Eden’s,[154] and saw some of my old
acquaintances. Met Clairfait,[155] who seems a mild, gentlemanlike man.
From Vienna I went to Znaym, Iglau, across the famous field of battle
at Kolin, to Prague; from thence to Dresden. The two posts at Aussig
and Peterwald were just as bad as they were the last time I went. I met
Lady Plymouth at Dresden, and dined with ye Duchess of Cumberland.
From Dresden I went to Berlin; tiresome deep road through sands and
thin forests of pines. At Berlin I came in time to see a review. I
dined with Ld. Elgin,[156] and at his house I saw the celebrated Pitt
diamond,[157] brought from Paris upon sale. Hugh Elliot insisted upon
bearing me company to Hamburg. Great difficulty of accommodation at
Hamburg: the town so filled with emigrants. Went to see General
Dumouriez. I was afraid of crossing the Elbe to Harburg, so went up
where it was narrow. Went through Harburg and Stade to Cuxhaven:
detained there some days on account of contrary winds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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