The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
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The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
_Monday, 29th._--Set off at 5 o’clock, and bid adieu to the clean
cottages and bold, craggy mountains of Switzerland. We were advised
against the Basle road, as it approaches so very near the French
frontier that we might unwillingly have seen some skirmishes. Here
the dwellings of the inhabitants resemble those of Lincolnshire, mud
walls, and the inhabitants as filthy as the ground they tread on.
The circle of Swabia is reckoned to be a fertile and well-cultivated
country and its population proves that its peasantry are well fed.
The hills are well covered with fir and oak, the remains of the old
Hercynian Forest that once overspread this part of Germany from the
Danube to the Rhine. The wild boar and the wolf are the only savage
animals that inhabit these regions. The clearing of the forest has very
much influenced the climate of Italy; Kirwan thinks by its destruction
Lombardy is become warmer. We crossed a ridge of sand hills; on the top
of them I observed the rills of water to run in different directions,
forming small rivulets to the north and south sides. These continue
their course from their original direction. A lively imagination might
fancy their lamentations at the impossibility of their ever meeting
again in their native country. ‘I go,’ says the northern drop, ‘to join
the slow-flowing Danube, and quench the thirst of the heavy-paced,
mechanical German, the proud, independent, but crushed Hungarian, and
the lazy, ignorant, slavish Turk. In my way I shall wash the walls of
Vienna, Presburg, and Belgrade, and then in company with the waters of
Poland and of Russia will try to live in harmony with the waters of the
Euxine Sea.’ ‘And I,’ says the merry southern drop, ‘will rush on to
the rapid Rhine, wash the coast of the brave and hardy Swiss, will then
avoid the once cheerful Frenchmen, and frisk down to the North Sea,’
and, if he is of my mind, will avoid the chalky coast of England.
Arrived at midnight at Pallingen; I slept in a billiard room, a
_meuble_ neither ornamental, comfortable, nor useful.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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