The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
History
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
_Saturday, 14th, Remagen._--Set off at 8 o’clock. Six hundred
Carmagnol prisoners had slept in the town, and quitted it about the
time we did. I never beheld more miserable objects; many of them were
boys of fifteen and sixteen years old, crying from cold and nakedness,
walking upon the hard flints barefooted; others, sick and wounded,
were huddled upon each other in small carts. I tried to convey them
some money, but the _impitoyable_ Austrian corporal took all for
himself. Reached Coblentz to dine; uncommonly well lodged at the Hôtel
de Trèves. This place, which was enlivened a year ago by the residence
of the Prince and all Versailles, is now tranquil, even to dulness. The
situation of the town is pretty, and the fortress of Ebrenstein[113] is
finely placed.
[Sidenote: A GERMAN ROAD]
_15th._--My early exertions seldom succeed: I was up in time to
rouse the lark. It was scarcely light when we got into the carriages,
but by the laziness of the people at the _pont volant_ we did
not leave the city until 9 o’clock. Unfortunately, in quitting the
town we took the road to Nassau. I verily believe since the Creation
no four-wheeled carriage ever went upon such a road, unless Pluto
conveyed his reluctant bride in his infernal car, for it seems to lead
to his dominions only. The country is ugly; the want of population,
so unlike every other part of Germany, is remarkable. Since I saw
the Sussex downs I have seen nothing more disconsolate. Upon a bare
hill an immense flock of sheep were feeding; they relieved the eye
from the hopeless sterility around. The breed of sheep is remarkably
small; they are even less than those in Wales, and it equals the
Welsh mutton in flavour. After many hairbreadth escapes we at length
re-entered the habitations of men: we descended a very steep hill upon
a narrow road, which was very slippery nor had it the protection of
a _garde-fou_, till we came to a smart little town, charmingly
situated upon the Lahn and surrounded by fantastically shaped hills
covered to the summit either with vines, or what in summer must form
thick foliage.
Just entering Nassau there are ruins of two such picturesque castles!
How I longed for a pencil to sketch their mouldering walls ere the
rude blast of winter shall destroy their antique forms! Perhaps they
may have been the residence of a haughty baron with a proud line of
ancestry enough to make Dan Prior say:--
Can Bourbon or Nassau go higher?
But, alas! with the heroes he commemorates they are gone by. Their
ruined walls scarcely afford a shelter to a wretched goatherd and his
shaggy flock.
The night of the 15th was spent at Neustadt, and from
thence the road lay by Schwalbach to Mayence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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