The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
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The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 1 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
I dined the next day at Massa. I had a letter to a descendant of the
Greek Emperor Paleologus, his name is Paleologo. He is a single man; to
avoid a _tête-à-tête_ with a perfect stranger, the visit to whom
was whimsical in itself, I admitted my maid _en tiers_. I was in
high spirits and very jolly. I went in a _chaise-à-porteurs_ into
the quarries at Carrara. They produce the finest marble after that
found at Paros. My royal Greek was very careful of me. He escorted
me through all difficulties, torrents, chasms, precipices, etc. Upon
the whole I expect he took me for an _aventurière_; indeed, he
well might, though my suite rather imposed upon him, for I went in my
own chaise, my maid with me, and on the seat my cook and a footman,
and André was on horseback. I am sure he thought there was something
_mysterious_, at least, about me.
I went from Massa to Pisa, where to my surprise I found Lords Wycombe
and Holland, and my _farouche_ companion; they had not found a
favourable wind to cross to the Isle of Elba, and were on their return
to Florence. I walked about Pisa in the morning. It is a beautiful
town, and the quay has perhaps the advantage of Florence in beauty.
The Campo Santo, the Campanile, and the church are very beautiful.
The leaning tower is still a problem among the curious, whether its
deviation from the perpendicular was accidental or intentional.
Monsieur de la Condamine measured it with a plumb line, and found that
when let down from the top it touched the ground at the distance of
thirteen feet from the bottom of the tower.
[Sidenote: VALLOMBROSA]
Lord Wycombe read us a sonnet he had just composed; it was very
ingeniously written. I went to the famous Vallombrosa, a Benedictine
convent, about sixteen miles from Florence. The road for the last six
miles is through a thick forest of chestnut; the ascent is steep. The
monastery is placed on a verdant lawn round which the mountains form
an amphitheatre; the darkest pines surround the whole building, and
hanging woods of that tree only decorate the steep sides of the hills.
No woman is admitted within the convent walls; I dined at the Mill
House close to it. After dinner the _Padre Abate_ and many of the
monks came out and joined us. He is a lively, middle-aged man, with
apparently little love of devotion and a strong love of pleasure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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