The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 2 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
History
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 2 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
On Thursday Dumouriez and Berchemeyer dined with us. In the morning
we went to see Klopstock, the father and founder of German poetry.
He is now near 90 years of age, full of vivacity and as strong in
intellect as he probably ever was. His writings are known throughout
Germany, but are difficult to translate, as they are in the sublime,
incomprehensible style. His _Messiah_ is his greatest work. He
talked to us of English literature, especially of Pope’s Homer.
In the evening we went with Mrs. Parish to the Syndic Dormanne’s
house in the country. It was a day of festivity, being an annual
commemoration of a charitable institution. We laughed at Marsh, who
endeavoured to make a compliment to the Syndic about his house, and
began praising it as a town house, whereas the Syndic had been pointing
out to us the _champêtre_ appearance and the _point de vue
pittoresque_ which it enjoyed. But Marsh persisted in his original
idea, and dwelt upon its excellence considering it was in a populous
town. The truth is the house, tho’ two miles from the city, is one in a
sort of row upon the Alster.
They left Hamburg on July 24, to go by Hanover to Berlin,
crossing the Elbe at Tollenspicker. ‘The carriage came
over in the regular ferry boat, which is of a singular
construction considering that the waves are sometimes
high; the ends are both open. Marsh and Duncannon bought a
horse between them, which keeps up with German travelling,
a proof of its rapidity!’ They slept the first night at
Lüneburg. The road to Zell lay through a stretch of forest
land, but sparsely inhabited, ‘not more than three villages
sprinkled over an extent of thirty miles.’ Lady Holland
says, ‘On the whole it is the worst country I ever saw, and
naturally so incapable of improvement that it would baffle
the agricultural skill of our English improvers.’
From Zell to Hanover two posts: we were eight hours. Saw nothing but
forests of diminutive firs, deep sands, and barren wastes. In fifty
years there may perhaps be a tolerable road; at present all that
appears is that probability. The _chaussée_ is marked out, trees were
planted, and even in some places stones are collected in heaps, but
only here and there for about a hundred yards are any laid on the road;
and where there is that small portion of _pavé_, it seems merely to be
a pretext for a heavy toll. Well may these Hanoverian surveyors boast,
as did one of the French patriots, that they labour for posterity!
Arrived at Hanover ye 27th July, 1800.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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