The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 2 (of 2)Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
History
The journal of Elizabeth Lady Holland (1791-1811) Volume 2 (of 2)
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady
Holland, Elizabeth Vassall Fox, Lady, 1770-1845 -- Diaries
After dinner the Dss. desired I would join her to pass the eve. at
Mde. Deodati’s, a dull card assembly. The weather was very hot. Poor
Drew fell ill, and kept his bed; a fever and spasms. On Thursday we
dined again at Court. In the evening went to the French comedy: a
very pretty theatre; afterwards to Mr. Des Arte, merely to please Mr.
Kinnaird, who is living with him. Mr. Ridley, a good-humoured young
man, K.’s fellow-traveller. On Friday received another invitation to
dine at Court; I wrote a letter of acknowledgment and apology to the
good Duchess. Drew was better, and we set off to Helmstadt. On the
right-hand side of the road a building with four painted towers, which
belies its warlike appearance, as it is nominally the seat of peace
and bliss--a convent; tho’ in fact hatred and discord sojourn chiefly
within such walls, and Ariosto was scarcely satiric when he makes the
angel seek discord in a monastery. Upon second thoughts I believe he
sought indolence, not discord. He might, however, have named both; one
is suspended only by the other.
The first night was spent at Helmstadt, the second at
Magdeburg. ‘Magdeburg is the frontier town on Prussian
territory. It was sacked by the barbarous Tilly at the
beginning of the bloody wars under Gustavus Adolphus, and
it has since afforded a prison to La Fayette, who lived a
year in the citadel, before he was transferred to a more
rigorous jailor, the Emperor.’
Zefur, their next halt. ‘We went to the worst inn, where
we were abominably cheated and abominably lodged.’ They
reached Potsdam at one o’clock the next night.
We went to the Palaces. I saw them about four years ago, but as they
are very fine I did not dislike another visit to them. The Great
Palace contains rooms as superb as any in Versailles, and may vie with
those at Rome and Genoa. Sans Souci, the retreat of Frederick, is a
delightful habitation. His apartment is entire: his private library
(consisting solely of French books) is untouched. In his bedroom the
only picture is a portrait of Gustavus Adolphus; in an adjoining room
a bronze bust of Charles XII. of Sweden. I paid my homage to the
apartment of Voltaire. He occupied it many years, until he capriciously
quarrelled with his Royal patron.
[Sidenote: SANS SOUCI]
Close by the windows of Frederick’s private apartments are the
monuments of his dogs--large flat stones with their names simply
inscribed upon them. Near is a space he allotted to himself, as he
desired to be interred amidst these barking favourites; but his
successor wisely disobeyed the injunction, and gave the atheistical
Monarch Christian burial. Marsh was furious. I thought the profanation
of giving the form of tombstone was the provocation, or the marked
contempt of sacred rites in desiring to be buried in the centre of his
dogs, but I suspect his anger proceeded from some other cause, his
marked preference for those animals above his fellow creatures.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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