A mile or two before Cologne a bend of the river extremely beautiful. Wrote our names at the gates; one of the guard was a drunken Irishman, who with the rest of the vagrant scum of Europe composed the _Polish legion_. Cologne is a large, gloomy town, overrun with monks and beggars. The inn was excellent; it had just been repaired and newly furnished. We were surprised that, considering the interruption there must have been to travelling, accommodations and post horses should have been so good and abundant. We went to the play, which was bad enough, but like all foreign theatres well attended. The _gendarmes_ and hussars very handsome; we agreed that the French officers were better looking than formerly. The reason, I suppose, is that under the _ancien régime_ the officers were chiefly noble; now a man is taken out of the ranks and dubbed General.... [Sidenote: STEPHEN’S DEATH] _Sunday, Jan. 25, 1801, Staines Inn._--The complaint in my eyes and alarm about my poor child prevented me from enjoying myself during the last two months of my foreign excursion. After passing many watchful nights, and latterly for 8 together, by the side of my dear boy, he was snatched from me, alas, for ever.[153] He died on the day devoted to mirth, his dear father’s birthday. On ye 22nd early, we quitted H. H., and took up our residence at Ld. B.’s in Cavendish Square during their absence at Chatsworth. I was broken-hearted and dispirited for many weeks. Soon after, Charles caught the measles, and luckily for my peace of mind had them most favourably. His little endearing qualities, and Ld. H.’s affection, the kindness of friends, and the hope of having more children, have to a degree soothed my feelings, but oh! my God, what anguish can equal the pang a mother feels who sees her infant struggling against death. What I have endured worlds should not bribe me to undergo again. Beauclerk, as soon as he heard of our distress, came to town to see us, and with real heartfelt interest entered into our sorrows. Mrs. Smith showed herself affectionate and tender: and the D. of Bedford continued in town, and stayed as much with us as possible; indeed, day after day he devoted to being in our company. We had taken a mere nutshell, a _pied-à-terre_, in Stratton Street; my spirits have been so low that the small and varying society that I got of evenings from those that drop in amuses and cheers me. I write at this moment at Staines, where I am with Charles and Ld. H., partly that the first may be shown to his uncle, and partly that Ld. H. may see _his_ uncle, and endeavour, with Grey, to prevail upon him to resume his parliamentary functions.