The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
Philosophy
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
After dinner we went to see a show of fencing in the public hall, where
there was a vast crowd. We had to pay for entrance as to a puppet
show, and for our seats in addition. They showed us some play with
the poignard, with the two-handed sword, with the quarter-staff, and
with the hanger. Afterwards we saw them shooting for a prize with bow
and crossbow, on a ground far finer than that of Schaffhausen. Beyond
this place, at the city gate by which we had entered, we observed a
copious stream of water which was brought into the city from outside
and led under the bridge used for traffic. It is conveyed by a wooden
aqueduct built below the bridge aforesaid, and is thus carried over the
stream which forms the city ditch. This current in its course turns a
number of water-wheels attached to pumps which, by means of two leaden
pipes, raise the water of a spring, which rises in a hollow, to the
top of a tower some fifty feet in height. On the top of this tower the
water is poured into a great stone cistern, and from this cistern it
runs down through divers pipes and is distributed all over the city,
which in consequence is abundantly supplied with fountains. Private
persons, if it be their wish, may have a right of water for their own
use on payment of an annual rent of ten florins to the city, or for two
hundred florins paid down. The city was enriched by this magnificent
work about forty years ago.[73]
Marriages of Catholics with Lutherans are common, and the one most
keenly set on marriage commonly conforms to the faith of the other.
There are thousands of marriages of this sort. Our host was a Catholic
and his wife a Lutheran. Here they clean the glasses with a hairbrush
fixed to the end of a stick. According to report, excellent houses may
be bought for forty or fifty crowns apiece. The city guard did M. de
Montaigne and M. d’Estissac the honour of presenting to them fourteen
large vessels of wine for supper. This was brought by seven sergeants
clad in uniform and an officer of worship, whom our gentlemen invited
to sup, as is the custom in such cases. Something, moreover, is always
given to the bearers of the offering, and the sergeants aforesaid got a
crown. The officer who remained to supper told M. de Montaigne that the
city maintained three officials whose duty it was to greet strangers
of quality who came to visit the place, and that on this account they
always took care to ascertain the quality of each visitor, so that he
might receive the honours due to him. Moreover, they offered more wine
to some than to others. If a duke should arrive in the city, one of the
burgomasters would attend to bid him welcome. Us they took for barons
and knights. For certain reasons M. de Montaigne was inclined to assume
this counterfeit dignity, and to keep silence as to our real quality.
He spent the whole of the day walking through the town by himself, and
was convinced that he was treated with greater consideration on account
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