The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
Philosophy
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
of the aforesaid subterfuge. A like honour indeed was paid by all the
German towns.
As he was passing through the church of Notre Dame on a very cold
day (for, after having enjoyed the finest weather possible up to our
departure from Kempten, we had of late been sharply pricked by the
cold), he carried, without thinking thereof, his handkerchief at his
nose, deeming that, being alone and plainly dressed, no one would
remark him; but after he had become more familiar with certain of
the citizens, they told him that the church officers had found his
carriage on the morning aforesaid very strange. Thus he committed the
fault he was ever most studious to avoid, to wit, that he had made
himself conspicuous by a trick alien to the taste of those who remarked
the same; for, as far as in him lay, he always conformed and brought
himself in line with the manners of whatever place he might frequent;
indeed, while he was in Augsburg he always wore a fur cap when he went
about the town. Augsburg, they say, is free from the mice and large
rats with which the rest of Germany is infested, and they tell many
wonderful stories thereanent, attributing this immunity to one of their
bishops who is buried there, and affirming that the earth from his
tomb, which is sold in little portions the bigness of a nut, will drive
away the vermin aforesaid from any place to which it may be taken.[74]
On the Monday we repaired to the church of Notre Dame to witness the
marriage of a rich young lady of the city--albeit ill-favoured--to a
certain Venetian, a factor in the house of the Foulcres. Amongst the
guests there was not one good-looking woman. This family is a very
numerous one; they are all very rich, and hold the highest position
in this city. We visited two apartments in their house, one high, of
grand measurement, and paved with marble, and the other low-ceilinged,
enriched with medals, both ancient and modern, and having a small
room at the end. These are the most sumptuous rooms I ever beheld.
At the gathering after the wedding we saw some dancing, and they
danced nothing but _Alemandes_. They constantly stop dancing and
lead the ladies back to their seats, which are ranged in double rows
against the walls and covered with red cloth; but the gentlemen do
not sit there with them. After a slight pause they take their dames
out again, kissing their hands, which salutation the ladies accept
without returning it; and then, having placed the arm under the ladies’
armpits, they embrace them, and the ladies put their right hands on the
gentlemen’s shoulders. They dance and chat together with heads bare and
in sober attire.
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