The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
Philosophy
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
At table they gave us, together with silver goblets, others of painted
earthenware, and they washed the glasses with white salt. The first
service was sent up in a hot dish, very handy, which they placed on the
table with an iron implement. It contained eggs poached with butter.
On quitting this place we found the road somewhat narrow, and the
rocks closed upon us so much that the pass was hardly wide enough for
ourselves and the river together. In sooth we should have been in
danger of pushing one another into the abyss, if they had not built
between the river and the wayfarers a wall which was continued in
places a German league at a stretch. The more lofty of the mountains
which stood around us were wild rocks, some in solid masses, some
scored and broken up by the passage of the torrents, and some of a kind
of shale which let fall below innumerable fragments of astonishing
size, wherefore it impressed us that it would be perilous to travel
here during a tempest. We saw likewise whole forests of pine trees torn
up by the roots which still carried masses of earth. But the country
is well peopled, for, beyond these lower hills, we caught sight of
others higher up, cultivated and inhabited; and we learned also that
above these were fine, broad, level fields and good houses occupied
by rich farmers, who raised abundant corn for the villages below. We
crossed the stream by one of the numerous wooden bridges and then had
it on our left hand. Amongst other objects we saw a castle, perched on
the loftiest and most inaccessible point of the mountains, which they
told us belonged to a baron of the country, who lived there and enjoyed
his fine lands and hunting. Beyond these hills there is always to be
seen the range of high Alps, which we left to themselves. They indeed
bar the issue from this pass, so that the traveller has continually to
return to the course of the stream, and to emerge again at some turn
or other. This county of Tirol, which yields no revenue except from
the mountains, is worth three hundred thousand florins a year to the
archduke, more than he gets from all the rest of his dominions. We
crossed the river again by a stone bridge, and, after a bout of four
leagues, we arrived in good time at Bolzan.[102]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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