The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
Philosophy
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 1 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
Trante is somewhat larger than Aagen, an unpleasant place, and quite
lacking in the grace of the German towns, with narrow and crooked
streets.[108] Two leagues before reaching it we heard the Italian
tongue, and the town itself is equally divided between the two
languages, one quarter thereof being called after the Germans, with a
church in which they have a preacher of their own speech. We heard no
talk of the new forms of religion after we left Augsburg. In Trante,
which is on the Adisse, we saw the cathedral, which had a look of
great antiquity,[109] and the same may be said of a square tower near
thereto. We likewise visited Notre Dame, the new church where the
Council was held, in which church there is an organ, the gift of a
private gentleman. This is exceedingly beautiful; it is set up in a
marble gallery which is carved and adorned with divers fine statues,
those of some singing children being especially lovely.[110] This
church was built by _Bernardus Clesius Cardinalis_ in 1520, a native
of Trante and afterwards bishop.[111] Trante is a free town under the
charge and governance of the bishop, but at a time when they were hard
pressed in a struggle with the Venetians, the people called in the
Count of Tirol to help them, and in return therefor he has retained
certain authority and rights over the town. There has been a contention
between him and the bishop over this matter, but the bishop, who is a
Cardinal Madruccio, now holds possession.[112]
On this point M. de Montaigne said “that he had taken note during his
journey of those citizens who had done good service to the towns where
they were born; of the Foulcres of Augsburg, to whom was due the main
part of the embellishment of that city, who had placed palaces at all
the crossings of the streets, and filled the churches with all kinds
of works of art; of this Cardinal Clesius also, who, besides building
this church and several streets at his own charges, added a very fine
building to the castle of the town.” The outside of this building is
nothing remarkable, but within it is furnished and painted and enriched
in a fashion beyond anything that can be imagined. All the panel work
below is enriched with painted patterns, the bosses of the ceilings
are gilded and carven, the floors are made of a kind of hardened
earth painted like marble, a part of the rooms being fitted after one
fashion, and part, _à l’Allemande_, with stoves. One of these is of
porcelain darkened to the colour of bronze, and made in the form of
a group of large human figures, which, being heated warm the room.
Moreover there are certain others, stationed close to the wall, which
give out water, this being brought to them from the fountain in the
court below. This is a fine piece of work. We saw there also amongst
the other designs on the ceilings a torchlight procession by night,
which M. de Montaigne admired greatly, also two or three circular
chambers, in one of which was an inscription recording how “Clesius,
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