[95] “M. de Montaigne disoit que c’estoit la lune de ses tretes.” Querlon remarks, by way of explanation: “Parceque cette poussière obscurcissait le jour, ne lui laissoit, ainsi que la lune, que ce qu’il falloit de clarté pour se conduire.” [96] Stertzing. Here the watchman still calls the hours of the night as he did at Innsbruck in Montaigne’s time. [97] Eisack, a stream which rises on the Brenner and joins the Adige near Botzen. [98] “Qu’elles se laissent testonner et peigner jusques aus oreilles.” [99] Leonore, the only one of his children who survived him. In alluding to those who died in infancy he says, _Essais_, ii. 8: “Ils me meurent touts en nourrice: mais Leonor, une seule fille qui est echappée à cette infortune, a attainct six ans et plus.” [100] Klausen. [101] Kolmann. [102] Botzen. [103] In his _Voyage faict en 1600_, the Duc de Rohan puts this matter in a different light: “Je passay à Trente nullement agréable--et si ce n’estoit pour ce qu’elle est demy Italienne, me rejouissait de sortir de la petite barbarie et beuvette universelle, je n’en parlerois pas: ne trouvant point que tous les mathematiciens de nostre temps puissent jamais si bien trouver le mouvement perpetuel que les Allemans le font faire à leur goblets ... cette si grand frequentation de bouteils obscurcit tellement leurs autres belles parties que cela les rends méprisables et inaccostables de tout le monde. Car ils ne pensent faire bonne chère ny permettre amitié ou fraternité, comme ils disent, à personne sans y apporter le seau plein de vin pour la sceler à perpetuité.” The love of eating and drinking is still a marked characteristic amongst the Tirolese. [104] Branzoll. [105] Adige. [106] Trent. [107] Salurn. [108] Montaigne shows himself here less judicial than usual. He had evidently been so well pleased with his sojourn in Germany that he looked on everything over the frontier with a jaundiced eye. [109] It was begun in 1212 and is built entirely of marble. The tower alluded to is the Torre di Piazza, in which was hung Rengo, the great bell of Trent. [110] The work of Vincenzio Vicentini, 1534. [111] Bernardo Clesio, bishop from 1514 to 1539. He was made cardinal in 1530. [112] The relations of the bishops of Trent with the counts of Tirol, which resulted in the _quasi_ subjection of the first named, had been embroiled by disputes over the right of taxation which the counts of Tirol claimed over Church property in Trent ever since the twelfth century. Cardinal Madruccio held the see from 1567 to 1600. He was a member of an illustrious family of the city. [113] Probably Castel Beseno, a notable stronghold in these times. Or it might have been Castelbarco, afterwards a Venetian frontier fortress. [114] Roveredo. It had formerly been Venetian, but was now under Tirol as a fee of the bishop of Trent. [115] In the _Essais_, iii. 13, Montaigne writes of his horror of dew and vapours. [116] Another instance of his love of German customs.