The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
History
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
On the morning of Holy Thursday the Pope, in pontifical garb,
accompanied by the cardinals, repaired to the second platform of the
great portico of Saint Peter’s bearing a lighted torch in his hand.
Then a canon of Saint Peter’s, who stood on one side of the balcony,
read in a loud voice a bull written in Latin by which men of an
infinite variety of sorts and conditions were excommunicated; amongst
others the Huguenots were specially named, and all those princes who
keep hold on any of the lands of the Church, an article which caused
loud laughter from the Cardinals Medici and Carafa, who stood close to
the Pope. The reading of this bull lasted a good hour; for when the
canon had finished reading an article in Latin, the Cardinal Gonzaga,
who stood on the opposite side--uncovered like the canon--would repeat
the same in Italian. When the reading was done the Pope cast the
lighted torch down amongst the people; and, whether out of jest or not,
Cardinal Gonzaga threw down another, three torches having been kindled.
This having fallen amongst the people caused a vast disturbance below,
every one scrambling to pick up a fragment of the torch, and giving
and taking shrewd blows with fist or cudgel. During the reading of this
sentence the balustrade of the portico in front of the Pope was covered
with a large piece of black taffetas; but, the excommunication having
been pronounced, they folded up this black covering and disclosed one
of a different colour, whereupon the Pope gave his public blessing.
On these days they exhibit the handkerchief of Saint Veronica. This is
a countenance wrought in needlework, of a dark and sombre tint, and
framed after the fashion of a mirror. It is shown with great ceremony
from a high pulpit, five or six paces in width, and the priest who
holds it wears on his hands red gloves, while two or three other
priests assist him in displaying it. No spectacle provokes such great
show of reverence as this, the people all prostrate themselves on the
ground, the greater part of them weeping and uttering cries of pity.
A woman, whom they declared to be possessed, made a great uproar at
the sight of this effigy, and began to screech, and twist her arms,
and throw them about. The priests moved round the pulpit and exhibited
the effigy, now from one side and now from another, and at every
fresh display the people who beheld it cried out aloud. On these same
occasions they show to the people likewise with equal ceremonies a
lance head enclosed in a crystal vessel. This display is made several
times during the day, and the crowd which comes to witness the same is
so vast that, as far as the eye can reach from the pulpit aforesaid
outside the church, there is nought to be seen but an endless crowd of
men and women. Here is the true papal court; the pomp of Rome and its
chief grandeur lies in the outward show of religion: and it is a fine
sight in these days, this unbounded ardour of the people for their
faith.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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