The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
History
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
In the city a hundred or more confraternities are to be found, and
almost every gentleman is a member of some one of these: some of them
are open to strangers, and our kings of France belong to that of the
Gonfalon. Each particular society is wont to exercise, and especially
during Lent, certain functions of religious fellowship, and on this
special day they walk about in companies clad in linen gowns, each
company wearing its particular colour, white, red, blue, green, or
black, almost all with their faces covered. The most striking sight
I ever saw here or elsewhere was the incredible number of people
spread abroad through the city this day, busy with their devotions,
and especially those belonging to the aforesaid confraternities. For,
in addition to the great crowds seen during the day round about Saint
Peter’s, the whole city, as night approached, seemed to be on fire
on account of the procession of these confraternities towards Saint
Peter’s, each one bearing a lighted candle--almost always of white
wax--in his hand. I am sure that at least twelve thousand torches
must have gone by the place where I stood; for, from eight o’clock
till midnight, the street was filled with the procession, marshalled
and regulated in such excellent order that, though there were many
different companies coming from different places, the ranks were never
broken or the progress stayed. Each confraternity had a fine choir of
musicians, who sang as they marched. In the midst of the ranks went
a file of penitancers to the number of five hundred, who scourged
themselves with cords, and left their backs all raw and bloody. This is
a riddle which still baffles me, but there is no denying that they were
bruised and wounded in cruel fashion, and that this self-torture and
flagellation went on without ceasing. Judging by the aspect of their
faces, the assurance of their gait, and the steadfastness audible in
their discourse and visible in their countenances (for I heard several
of them speak, and many uncovered themselves in passing through the
street), it would never have suggested itself to me that they were
engaged in a painful and irksome task. Amongst them were youths of
twelve or thirteen years of age, and right in front of me was one, very
young and fair in seeming, over whose wounds a young woman lamented
sore; but the boy, turning towards us, said with a laugh, “Enough of
that; what I do I do for your sins and not for my own.”[121] Not only
was there absent all appearance of distress or violence, they even went
about their flagellation with an appearance of pleasure, or at least
of nonchalance, so marked that they might have been chattering about
other matters, laughing, bawling about the street, running and leaping
when there was so great a crowd that the procession fell somewhat
into confusion. Along with them went certain men carrying wine, which
was offered to them now and again, and some of them took a mouthful
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