The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
History
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 2 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
officials preferred to fasten it to the wall itself.[146] In this
small enclosure is the fireplace of the cottage, and this they exhibit
by drawing aside some ancient tapestries which hang before it. Very few
persons are allowed to enter here, indeed there is a notice over the
door forbidding admission to any one not furnished with the leave of
the governor. These doors are of metal, very richly worked, and an iron
grating is fixed in front of them.
Amongst the other rich and rare offerings left there I saw a candle
recently sent by a Turk who had made a vow to Our Lady when he was
in sore straits, and ready to seize upon any rope which might offer
help in gaining safety. The other and the larger portion of the
cottage serves as a chapel, but no daylight finds its way thereinto,
and the altar is placed beneath the grating and against the partition
already alluded to. In it neither ornaments, nor benches, nor chairs,
nor paintings, nor wall-hangings are to be found, for it is itself a
shrine. No swords or arms of any sort may be taken therein, and no
respect is paid to a man because of his high rank. We partook of the
Eucharist there, a privilege not granted to all, as another chapel is
provided for this function on account of the vast crowds of people who
commonly present themselves. So great is the throng every day in this
chapel that it is necessary to be there in good time to find standing
room. When I communicated a German Jesuit said mass. People are
forbidden to pare off bits of the masonry; indeed were they permitted
to carry away aught of the same the whole fabric would disappear in
three days. They tell of innumerable miracles in relation to the place,
for details of which I refer the reader to the books dealing with
the same, but many have happened in recent times; also for an account
of the mishaps which have befallen those who, out of devotion, have
abstracted fragments of the building, even with the Pope’s warrant.
Also they show a little bit of brick which had been taken away while
the Council of Trent was sitting, and was brought back by miraculous
agency. The cottage itself has been cased outside and strengthened by a
square fabric of the most sumptuous character made of the finest marble
and carved all over.[147] Few rarer or more exquisite works can be seen
elsewhere. Around and above this structure is a large and beautiful
church with many fine chapels and tombs, amongst which is that of the
Cardinal d’Amboise,[148] which the cardinal of Armaignac[149] caused
to be erected. The cottage itself serves as the choir of this church,
which, however, has a choir of its own, but this is set in a corner.
The whole of this great church is covered with pictures, frescoes, and
painted legends,[150] and we saw therein divers rich ornamental gifts,
but I was surprised not to find more, considering how ancient is the
fame of this church. I have a suspicion that they melt down the old
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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