[59] This is probably one of those traveller’s hasty generalisations which Montaigne occasionally lets drop. In his second visit he modified several of his earlier statements, and a very slight inquiry would have served to show him that letters still flourished in Florence, though not so freely as in the golden time of the earlier Medici. The _Accademia Fiorentina_ was founded in 1540, and the year following his visit saw the beginning of the Della Crusca. [60] During the mediæval wars Siena always favoured the French party. Villani (i. 43, 56) gives the legendary French origin of the place: how in the eighth century Charles Martel marched against the Lombards in Apulia, and left those of his troops who were old and unfit for service at this place. Two refuges were built, and the name _Senæ_ given to them, on account of the old men who dwelt therein. Villani calls it, for this reason, one of the most modern of Italian cities, ignoring Julius Cæsar’s foundation altogether. [61] The Fonte Gaja, which was completed in 1343. The sculptured reliefs were added by Jacopo della Quercia, 1412-1419. The sculptor subsequently enjoyed the epithet “della Fonte.” It was well restored by Signor Sarocchi in recent times. Dante’s eulogy of the market-place is well known:-- “Quando vivea pui glorioso, disse Liberamente nel Campo di Siena, Ogni vergogna deposta, s’affise.” _Purg._, xi. [62] These names all belong to the ancient Sienese nobility, and it is almost certain that Montaigne is referring to palaces and not to streets. [63] He was one of the most celebrated captains of the age. He fought in almost every country in Europe, and was equally distinguished as a man of affairs and a courtier, as he managed to retain to his death the favour and confidence of successive Grand Dukes of Tuscany. His son, Ottavio, was the well-known general of the Thirty Years’ War. He died in 1614, and is buried in the church of S. Agostino at Siena. [64] This house is probably No. 32 in what is now the Via Cavour. It was an hotel as late as 1852. [65] A town near Bordeaux. [66] After the capture of Siena by the Spaniards in 1555 a number of the people of Siena, nobles as well as burghers, withdrew to Montalcino with the intention of founding there a new republic. With them went the French mercenaries who, under the Marshal de Monluc, had helped to defend the city. Montaigne was, no doubt, inquiring after the tombs of these men. [67] This bridge crosses a stream called La Paglia, to which Montaigne probably refers when he speaks of the village of La Paille. [68] Ronciglione. The Farnesi had one of their finest seats here. [69] A piece of money first coined by Julius III., worth about sixty centesimi. [70] Montaigne evidently feared the effect of the dew. Just before he reached Roveredo (vol. i. p. 187) he writes to the same effect.