The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)Montaigne, Michel de
General
The journal of Montaigne's travels in Italy by way of Switzerland and Germany in 1580 and 1581, Volume 3 (of 3)
Montaigne, Michel de
Germany -- Description and travel; Italy -- Description and travel; Switzerland -- Description and travel
I prolonged my journey by ten miles in order to see Pavia. On
Wednesday, October 25th, I started early over a very good road, and
during the way I voided a small soft stone and a good deal of gravel.
We went through a small town belonging to the Conte Santafiore, and
our road at last brought us to the Po, which we crossed on a sort of
platform arranged on a double boat with a cabin for shelter, this
ferry being dragged across the river by means of a long rope which
was supported by a row of small boats arranged in the stream for this
purpose. Close to this place the Po and the Ticino unite their waters;
and hence we reached Pavia in good time after a journey of thirty short
miles.
I quickly set to work to visit the principal sights of the city: the
bridge over the Ticino; the cathedral; the churches of the Carmini,
S. Tomaso, and S. Agostino,[125] which contains the shrine of S.
Augustino, a splendid tomb of white marble with many statues. In one
of the piazzas of the city is a brick pedestal surmounted by a statue
which appears to be a copy of that of Antoninus Pius on horseback
before the Capitol at Rome.[126] This one is smaller and not to be
compared in beauty. What puzzled me was the fact that this statue
has stirrups and saddle-bows before and behind, whereas the Roman
statue has neither, which makes all the more cogent the opinion of the
learned, which maintains that the stirrups and saddle-bows were later
additions, some ignorant sculptor having fancied that they had been
forgotten. I saw also the building which by the bounty of Cardinal
Borromeo has been begun for the accommodation of the students.[127]
The town is large and certainly handsome, and full of hand workers
of all sorts, but few of the houses are really fine, even the one in
which the Empress lodged recently being of little account. I noticed
the escutcheon of France, but the lilies had been erased therefrom,
indeed there was nowhere anything remarkable to be seen. Hereabout
they charged two giuli a post for horses, and the best inn I have
entered between Rome and this place is the _Posta_ at Piacenza; indeed,
I believe it to be the best inn in all Italy, after the one at Verona.
The worst I have seen is the “Falcone” at Pavia. Here and in Milan
they charge separately for firewood, and the beds are unprovided with
mattresses.
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