As far as Limoges this road is badly furnished with inns, which, however, give you tolerably good wine, but they are used only by muleteers and couriers going to Lyons. My head was uneasy, the storms and cold winds and rain were very bad for it; and in sooth it got its fill of discomfort in this journey over a region where the winter is sharper than anywhere else in France. On Wednesday, November 22, I left Pont Sarrant in very bad weather, and, after passing by Feletin, a well-built little town placed in a hollow surrounded by high hills and now almost deserted on account of the recent pestilence, I stopped the night at Chastein, a miserable little village, five leagues on the road. Here I was forced to drink new unclarified wine, as no other was to be had, and the next day went on five leagues farther to Saubiac, which belongs to Monsieur de Lausun, thence to Limoges, where I stayed all the Saturday, I bought a mule for ninety crowns of the sun,[133] and paid in addition five crowns for maintenance of this mule from Lyons to this place, having been hereby cheated out of four crowns, for the cost of all the other horses for the same distance only amounted to three crowns and two-thirds. On Sunday, November the 26th, I left Limoges after dinner, and, after riding five leagues, slept at Cars, where I found no one but Madame de Cars at home. I slept on Monday night at Tivie--six leagues--on Tuesday at Perigus--five leagues--on Wednesday at Mauriac--five leagues--and on Thursday, St. Andrew’s, the last day of November, at Montaigne[134]--seven leagues--having quitted this same spot on June 22, 1580, to go to La Fère, my journey having lasted seventeen months and eight days. INDEX Abano, ii. 21, 23 Agriculture, ii. 186, 187, 191, 192; iii. 33, 84, 85 Aigues Caudes (Eaux Chaudes), i. 78; ii. 181; iii. 45 Ammianus Marcellinus, i. 64_n_ Amyot, J., ii. 126_n_ Ancona, iii. 1-4 Andelot, Sieur, i. 47, 48 Angelo, Mich., i. 11; ii. 49 Antiquities, classic, i. 91, 115; ii. 71, 98, 100, 128-131, 166, 185; iii. 7, 84, 118, 119 Appenino (statue), ii. 44, 47 Arabian physician, ii. 122 Arezzo, iii. 22, 123_n_ Ariosto, ii. 34; iii. 110 Artillery, ii. 164 Augsburg, i. 9, 129-150; religious factions, i. 149 Austria, i. 74, 97, 123; Don John of, ii. 127; relations with Lucca, iii. 33 Baden, baths of, i. 77-91; cost of living at, 89 Bagnaja, iii. 162, 165 Banieres (Bagnères de Bigorre), i. 55; ii. 39; iii. 33, 47, 79 Baptism, Lutheran, i. 132, 133 Barbotan, i. 78; ii. 28; iii. 45, 79 Bartholomew, S., i. 11; ii. 127_n_ Basle, i. 62-67; religious discords, 65; dissoluteness of women, 66 Baths at Rome, ii. 133, 134 Beaumont-sur-Oise, i. 25, 26 Beds, i. 103, 107, 130, 168, 188; ii. 31, 32; iii. 51 Bembo, P., ii. 10 Bernabo, spring of, iii. 56, 62, 88, 102