The Kentish CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Kentish Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Kent (England) -- Description and travel
There is a vast deal of exhausting up-and-down walking along the
lofty cliff tops on the way from the Shakespeare Cliff Colliery to
Folkestone. The Dover to Folkestone road itself, running somewhat
inland, at first in the lap of these downs, climbs continually for more
than five miles, and is a profoundly wearisome highway. It is an effect
of vastness which obsesses the traveller here, and, where the road
leaves the sheltered, tree-clad hollow, one of stark and uncomfortable
surroundings; horribly bleak in winter, and hot enough to fry you in
summer. But at a point a mile and a half along the cliffs’ edge, where
they rise to a great height beside a coastguard-station, the explorer
on foot may, at the cost of another considerable output of exertion,
descend to the beach in a very fine, romantic, and absolutely secluded
nook. Rarely will you find any one down here: the spot is too little
known, and the effort of descending and climbing up again is too great.
No fewer than 530 steps lead, roughly, and with many zigzags, down the
face of the cliffs to the beach. The spot is known as Lydden Spout,
from a clear spring which used to gush from the chalk, and, later, was
made to issue from an iron pipe. It spouts no longer; but this is still
a place worth all the trouble of getting at. Gulls down here, screaming
and chorusing like so many party politicians (but much more sincere),
take little notice of the rare stranger. If you like, you can walk
back along the beach, all the way to the Colliery. Which is the more
exhausting, the shingle walk, or remounting those more than 500 steps,
I will not pretend to say.
The pedestrian’s way into Folkestone lies along the Warren, that
ancient, tumbled expanse of wild undercliff, two miles long, which
you see spread out before you on reaching the “Royal Oak” inn, by the
roadside. Resisting the hospitalities of the tankards held out by
the beery votaries of the wayside public, let us descend through the
Warren into the town. On the way down we shall pass by the gorsy hollow
called “Steddy Hole,” a spot of horrific interest a good many years
ago, for here, in the Crimean War period, August 1856, a soldier of the
Foreign Legion, one Dedea Redanes, a Neapolitan, murdered “sweet Maria
and lovely Caroline,” as a stone formerly to be seen here described
them: two sisters, Caroline and Maria Buck. He was duly executed at
Maidstone. The stone is no longer to be seen, and the tragic hollow to
such a degree been forgotten that on summer days happy lovers may be
found in the ill-omened spot, unconscious of its tragedy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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