The Kentish CoastHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Kentish Coast
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Kent (England) -- Description and travel
The chief picturesque asset of this region is the exceedingly quaint
group of old tarred tackle-boxes, or rigging-lofts, fronting the Fish
Market, on the Stade. This is the last stronghold of the picturesque
here, and very well worth preserving. Elsewhere in the Old Town there
are interesting seventeenth and eighteenth century red-brick houses,
but they are woefully slummy. High above this lowly region and the
harbour is the old parish church of St. Eanswythe, that famous lady,
daughter of Eadbald, King of Kent, who founded a convent here on the
hill-top and caused water to run miraculously uphill to supply it. It
is not surprising that she was made a saint. Rome could scarcely do
less. A leaden reliquary containing relics of her was discovered in a
wall of the church in 1895.
I have already remarked that modern Folkestone, as distinguished
from the old fishing-port, wears in its most prominent residential
parts the appearance of an unregenerate South Kensington; of the
South Kensington before the cult of the sunflower and of Queen Annean
architecture banished white brick and stucco. That it should so closely
resemble the South Kensington of the Cromwell Road district, built soon
after the Great Exhibition of 1851, is not remarkable, seeing that it
was Cubitt, that great conjurer with bricks and mortar (not forgetting
the plaster) who was the author of both. He bade arise both Cromwell
Road and the intensely respectable and extremely expensive mansions
that front upon the Folkestone Leas--or Lees, as I grieve to find them
frequently spelt--and Dickens was in 1855, or thereabouts, the prophet
of all these things. Dickens, in this setting, is a figure of absolute
rightness. You cannot imagine him, even had he lived long enough, in a
Morris and Burne-Jones _milieu_.
He came to Folkestone when the new town was of the newest and still
in the making, and when the original Pavilion Hotel, the predecessor
of the existing hotel of that name, was fresh-built. He described
Folkestone under the name of “Pavilionstone,” and one may still see
in Albion Villas the house he rented for a time; a thoroughly typical
house.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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