The Knickerbocker, or New-York Monthly Magazine, May 1844: Volume 23, Number 5Various
History
The Knickerbocker, or New-York Monthly Magazine, May 1844: Volume 23, Number 5
Various
Periodicals
The English eat, or at least a portion of them do, and they cook, but who
ever heard of an English eating-house, or of an English cook? We have
heard of DOLLY'S chop-house, but its reputation was gained by the quality
of its guests rather than the merit of its cooks. For aught the world
knows to the contrary, there is not an eating-house in any of the European
capitals beside Paris. But every body knows the names, the situation, and
even the _carte du jour_ of at least a dozen restaurants in the French
capital without ever having been there. The 'Rocher' is as well known as
the Rock of Gibraltar, and Very and Chatelain have reputations as extended
as those of Guizot and Theirs. Vatel is more famous than Vattel, and the
cook will doubtless be remembered when the philosopher is forgotten: he
will never die, at least, while the memory of Sevigne lives.
Not long since we saw on a sign-board, stuck up at the entrance of a
cellar on the corner of Reade-street and Broadway, '_Au Rocher de
Cancale_,' painted in very soup-maigreish looking letters, with an attempt
at the representation of an oyster-shell. Now look at the impudence of the
thing; at the Frenchiness of it! Here we are with our Prince's Bays, our
York-rivers, our Mill-ponders, our Shrewsburys, and Blue pointers, a
shilling's worth of either worth all the shell-fish that ever grew on the
French coast; and this Parisian sets up his sign in the midst of these
marine riches, with a 'ROCHER DE CANCALE!' No other nation could have been
guilty of such arrogance. No Englishman has ever had the temerity to
insult us with an allusion to his dirty 'natives.'
What would be thought of an American who should have the presumption to
open a House of Refreshment in the Rue St. Jacques or the Palais Royale,
and announce to the Parisians that he would serve up for them Prince's Bay
oysters, fried, stewed, roasted or in the shell; clam soup, pumpkin-pies,
waffles, hoe-cakes and slap-jacks, or mush-and-milk and buck-wheats? Would
the most inquisitive or most vulgar man in France venture within the doors
of a house where such barbarisms were perpetrated? But why not, Monsieur?
Why not, as well as for us to crowd the _salons_ of the Messieurs who
tempt us with their equally outlandish _carte a manger_, or who exclaim to
us when we enter:
'MON salon est toujours gami,
Et mon buffet bien assorti,
Ou vante mon chablis,
Mes huitres, mes radis,
Ainsi que raes salmis
De perdrix:
Mes godiveaux au ris;
Mes tourtes, mes hachis;
Fameux palis, gros et petits;
Boeuf au naturel, au coulis;
Papillotes,
Gibelotes,
Matelotes,
Fines compotes,' etc., etc.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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