The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 1, July 1837Various
History
The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 1, July 1837
Various
Periodicals
Callender is a retired and quite a rude little village, at the
south-west entrance to the highlands, and is the usual stopping
place for tourists. The people here generally speak Gäelic, and the
children wear the highland kilt. The inn is the only decent house
in the place. Joined an agreeable party from Edinburgh, and walked
out to Bracklinn Bridge, and a beautifully-romantic waterfall. For
eighteen hours out of the twenty-four, at this place, at present,
(June) it is light enough to read without a candle; and at eleven P.
M., it is as light as our twilight.
* * * * *
STEWART'S INN, LOCH ACHRAY, FRIDAY EVE.--This has been a most
delightful day. It was a soft and brilliant morning, and we walked
eight miles before breakfast to the celebrated Pass of Leven, one of
the grandest in the highlands. Ben Ledi, 'the Hill of God,' (where
the natives are said to have worshipped the sun,) lifts its lofty
summit on one side, and at its base are two lovely little lakes,
their glassy surface reflecting clearly the splendid picture around.
After an excellent breakfast, M'Gregor, our host, furnished us with
the 'Rob Roy' car, and we were soon ushered into the classic and
romantic region of the 'Lady of the Lake;' Ben Ledi being on our
right, Ben An and Ben Venue frowning upon us in front. Riding along
the banks of Loch Vennachar, on our left, we see Coilantogle Ford,
where was the 'Combat', in which Fitz James mastered Roderick Dhu:
'By thicket green and mountain grey,
A wildering path! they winded now
Along the precipice's brow,
Commanding the rich scenes beneath,
The windings of the Forth and Teith,
And all the vales between that lie,
Till Stirling's turrets melt in sky.'
Our course was the same as that of the Knight of Snowdon, reversed;
and every turn of the road brought new beauties to view, in the
splendid landscape. On the opposite shore of Loch Vennachar, we saw
the 'Gathering Place of Clan Alpine,' where, at the shrill whistle of
Roderick Dhu, and to the surprise of Fitz James:
'Instant through copse and heath arose
Bonnets, and spears, and bended bows;
On right, on left, above, below,
Sprang up at once the lurking foe;
From shingles grey their lances start,
The bracken bush sends forth the dart;
The rushes and the willow-wand
Are bristling into axe and brand;
And every tuft of broom gives life
To plaided warrior, armed for strife.'
Every visitor here must remark the singular _accuracy_ of the
pictures of scenery throughout this poem. We can find the original of
every passage of local description, and I cannot help quoting some of
them.
The 'plaided warriors' are now scarcely to be seen this side of
the Braes of Balquiddar. How similar is their case to that of our
American Indians! Like them, they were the original possessors of the
soil, and roved in lawless freedom:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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