The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 4, October 1837Various
History
The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 4, October 1837
Various
Periodicals
To retrace: At four P. M., on the 14th, I seated myself in the
diligence for Lyons. One of my companions was a very _nice_ and
pretty young lady, who proved to be Paulina Celeste, a Signorina of
Milan, returning with her mother from an engagement at the Italian
Opera, in London. She was quite intelligent, but could not speak
a word of English, except 'very warm,' (and indeed it was;) but
I managed to amuse myself, if not her, in some funny attempts at
conversation in French.
We rode out of Paris over Pont Neuf, passing Notre Dame and the
Jardin des Plants, and proceeded by a dull and level road, (leaving
Fountainbleau and St. Dennis on either side,) along the banks of the
Yonne to Villeneuve, Pont-sur-Yonne, Sens, Joigny, etc., without any
remarkable incident, except that I had the pleasure of being left
behind at one of the stopping places, at eleven o'clock at night. The
conducteurs, when they have taken your money for the whole route,
care very little whether you proceed or not; and I was indebted to
a long hill for detaining the diligence till I overtook it, after a
_hot_ chase of a couple of miles. The next morning at eleven o'clock
we were graciously allowed time to break our fasts of twenty-seven
hours; and a very ordinary _dejéuner_ was despatched, as you may
imagine, with considerable zeal.
Nearly two-thirds of the journey is through corn-fields and
vineyards, affording no fine scenery, but entering a score of petty
villages, made up of the most uncouth and wretched huts imaginable.
The only places worth mentioning, were Auxerre, an ancient town,
fortified by the Romans; Autun, which we entered under a Roman arch
or barrier; Metun, Avallon, Ville-Franche, and Chalons-sur-Soane,
which latter is quite a pretty place, in a fine situation on the
banks of the Soane. We dined there on poulet, pigeon, potage, melon,
bits of lobsters, two inches long, and a variety of dishes so
disguised as to be nameless; with fresh prunes, pears, and grapes for
a dessert. Delicious fresh prunes and grapes may be had here almost
for the taking, but apples, pears, and melons, are scarce and dear.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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