The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 4, October 1837Various
History
The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 4, October 1837
Various
Periodicals
This is the only pass to this quarter of France, and is rendered
impregnable by a strongly-fortified castle, lately built on the
side of the crag, _over_ the road; so that all travellers must pass
through the court-yard, and submit to close examination. At five P.
M., our passports were received by an officer in more simple uniform
than usual; and this was the first intimation that we had left the
dominions of Louis Phillipe, and entered those of his republican
neighbors. We soon saw other changes. The neat and comfortable
cottages, and the taste and industry displayed in the adjoining
grounds and gardens, in approaching Geneva, form a striking contrast
to the miserable huts and farm-houses of the peasantry of France.
Verily, the lower classes of the French are a filthy people. They
seem to have no idea of neatness, propriety, and comfort, in any
thing. As farmers, and in nearly all the _useful_ arts, they are a
century behind the English. Madame Trollope, methinks, might here
indulge her satirical pen, to her heart's content. But we were
entering Geneva.
It was on a 'soft and lovely eve,' at six, when this pretty town and
prettier lake, with the charming walks and gardens of the environs,
first greeted our admiring vision. The frowning Jura looks down upon
the lake on one side, and the distant snow-capped Alps, with Mont
Blanc duly conspicuous, bound the horizon on the other. At the gates
of the town, which is strongly walled, those important documents,
our passports, were again given up for inspection at the Bureau of
the 'Confederation Fedérale.' The diligence passed round the famous
great Hotel des Bergues, and over the pretty bridge which you see in
the pictures, and set us down at the Hotel de l'Europe, where I was
_favored_ with a bit of a room on the fifth floor, for the hotels
are all crowded. The Bergues, by the way, is considered the best
public house on the continent. There you may mix with lords, princes,
pretty ladies, and handsome equipages, from all parts of Europe. This
place being the head-quarters for tourists to Italy, and noted for
its delightful situation and pure air, is always a favorite resort,
especially for the fashionable and wealthy English.
* * * * *
I WAS so fortunate as to find a vacant room at Monsieur W----'s
beautiful place in the environs, where I have the society of two or
three English and American families, beside the Misses W----, who are
intelligent, sensible girls, and speak English 'like a native.' It is
a most interesting family--uniting the simplicity and _strength_ of
the Swiss character with the refinement and grace of the French.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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