The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 4, October 1837Various
History
The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 4, October 1837
Various
Periodicals
The distance to the Convent from Martigny, the nearest resting
village, is twenty-seven miles, nine miles of it being the steep
ascent of the mountain; of course it takes a long day to achieve it.
When Napoleon made the celebrated passage of the St. Bernard, with
the army of reserve in 1804, just before the battle of Marengo, the
path was much worse than it is now, and the idea of transporting
heavy ordnance, etc., for an army of sixty thousand, over a mountain
which even now the sure-footed mules must tread with great caution,
was considered madness. But Napoleon and Hannibal were not easily
discouraged, neither were the heroic ladies of our little caravan,
who were content to earn their supper and lodging in these upper
regions, by two days' hard work of climbing and descending.
We did not achieve the victory without bloodshed. Two of the ladies
were thrown violently from their mules, and one of the animals took
it into his head to stop short in the midst of a pretty strong
thunder-shower; and I had a nice chance of earning a reputation for
gallantry, by pushing boldly forward, and returning with another mule
for the hapless dame.
We all at last arrived, however, without broken limbs, plentifully
drenched by the shower, and well able to appreciate the hospitality
of the monks. They provided changes of raiment for those who brought
none, piled the wood liberally on the fire, and soon spread the table
as liberally with an excellent supper. The ladies and their attending
squires supped by themselves, two of the most intelligent of the
brothers officiating, and dispensing _bon café_ and _bon mots_, while
the supernumerary _men-kind_ were entertained in another room by the
other monks, headed by the Superior.
This famous convent is a very plain, large wooden building, which at
a distance you would take for a barn, situated far above the regions
of vegetation, and several miles from the nearest habitation. It is
partly supported by the governments of Sardinia and Switzerland, for
the purpose of relieving travellers over the mountain; for without
it, the pass would scarcely be _passed_ at all. The monks appear
to be plain, sensible, and intelligent men, without that austerity
usually associated with that order. They freely receive all who come
here, either for curiosity or necessity, without charge; but visitors
contribute whatever they please to the box in the chapel. They turned
out their famous dogs for our amusement; in the winter, they are used
for more important purposes. They are not so large as I expected,
but they are really noble animals. Many a weary traveller have they
rescued from death in the snow.
Some of the monks are the same who were here when Napoleon's army
came over, and they have a picture of his arrival at the convent, in
the little museum of antiquities. In the hall, is a tablet with this
inscription:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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