The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 6, December 1837Various
History
The Knickerbocker, Vol. 10, No. 6, December 1837
Various
Periodicals
18TH.--Just finished lionizing. Firstly, churches; St. Jacques;
Corinthian order; remarkably elegant and tasteful: Notre Dame des
Victoires, Notre Dame de Chapelle, and St. Michael; cathedrals richly
adorned with paintings and sculpture. The towers of St. Michael are
massive and conspicuous objects in the panorama of the city; and the
magnificence of the interior is really astonishing. High mass was
here also in operation in more than usual splendor, but I need not
detail the ceremonies, with which I am free to say I was more amused
than edified. In these cathedrals, as you are aware, there are no
such things as pews, or permanent seats. The multitude are content
to kneel on the cold stone floor, or if perchance a few chairs are
provided, the occupants are often interrupted in their 'Ave Marias'
by a summons for the rent thereof. Much did some of them seem to
marvel that my heretical self touched not the holy water. 'While I
stood wrapped in the wonder of it,' comes up a batallion of about one
hundred young ladies, all dressed alike, in black silk frocks and
straw bonnets, respectable and intelligent-looking girls, probably
belonging to some large Catholic seminary. They were escorted by two
ladies into the choir.
Close by Notre Dame, I passed a grog-shop with this sign, verbatim.
'À LA GRACE DE DIEU:
VALENTINE, MARCHAND D'EPICERIES ET LIQUEURS.'
In all these churches there are little chapels around the walls,
dedicated to the different saints, with contribution-boxes at the
entrance, labelled in French and Dutch, '_Ici on offre à St. Roch,
patron contre maladies contagieuse_.' '_Ici on offre à St. Antoine
patron contre_;' something else, I forget what. '_Ici on offre à
Notre Dame des doleurs aux pieds de la croix_;' and so on.
The next curiosity is the Hotel de Ville, a very large and curious
old building, with a tower after the model of that of Babel. It was
in this edifice that the Emperor Charles V. signed his abdication.
The beautiful palace built for the Prince of Orange, was just
completed and furnished, when the revolution of 1830 broke out.
Leopold, it seems, is too honorable and conscientious to use it, so
that it is kept as a show-place. The interior is superb. It is a
small edifice, comparatively, but a perfect gem of its kind. Visitors
are required to put on cloth slippers, and slide, not walk, over
the floors of polished oak. In some of the rooms, the walls are of
variegated marble; others are covered with the richest satin damask.
There is a fine collection of choice paintings by Rubens, etc., in
this palace. They showed me also, in the stable, the state-carriage
of the Prince of Orange, which he had not time to save when he lost
Belgium.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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