The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
With the Mgeta thrown on the left hand, we passed by a path almost
invisible, through dense grass and trees, and presently we entered the
luxuriant cultivation surrounding the westernmost villages of K’hutu. As
the land beyond this point, for three long marches, lies barren, the
slaves and porters had comfortably housed themselves. The prospect of
another night in the plains made me desperate; I dislodged them, and
persuaded them to advance once more. The settlements were of the most
miserable description; many were composed of a few sticks lashed
together at the top, and loosely covered with a few armfuls of
holcus-cane. Here we sighted the cocoa-tree for the last time. The rats
were busy in the fields, and the plundered peasants were digging them
out for food. At almost every corner of the deeply-pitted path stood a
mtego, or trap for small birds, a cage of rush or split bamboo planted
in the ground near some corn, where a boy lies waiting till the prey
nibbles at the bait, and then creeping up, bars with his hand the little
doorway left in one of the sides. Beyond the villages the path forded
six times the sandy bed of the Mgeta, whose steep and slippery banks
supported dense screens of shrub and grass. Beyond the sixth passage,
the road falls into the gravelly river-shoals, with the stream flowing
in the other half of the course, under well-wooded masses of primitive
hill. After again thrice fording the cold and muddy water, which even in
the dry season is here ankle, there foot-deep, the road passed some
clearings where porcupines and the African red squirrel, a sturdy little
animal, with a long thick fur of dark brown, shot with green on the
back, and a bright red waistcoat, muzzle, and points, were observed.
About noon we diverged a few yards from the Mgeta, and ascended the
incline of the first gradient in Usagara, rising about 300 feet from the
plain below. This, the frontier of the second region, or ghauts, and the
debris encumbering the lowest escarpment, is called Mzizi Mdogo, or the
“Little Tamarind,” to distinguish it from the “Great Tamarind” station
which lies beyond. There was no vestige of building upon the spot--no
sight nor sound of man--the blood-feud and the infernal slave-trade had
made a howling desert of the land. We found, however, a tattered kraal
erected by the last passing caravan, and, spent with fatigue, we threw
ourselves on the short grass to rest. The porters and the asses did not
appear till the evening, when it became apparent that two of the latter
had been lost by their drivers, Hayja and Khamisi, sons of Ramji, who
preferred sitting in the shade, and chatting with passing caravans, to
the sore task of doing their duty. The animals were recovered on the
morrow, by sundry parties sent in search. During the fordings of the
Mgeta, however, they had not been unpacked; our salt and sugar,
therefore, had melted away; soap, cigars, mustard, and arsenical paste,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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