The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
The next day was a forced halt at Cha K’henge. Of two asses that had
been left behind one was recovered, the other was abandoned to its fate.
The animals purchased at Zanzibar were falling off visibly in condition.
Accustomed to a kind of grass which nowhere grows upon these sunburnt
hills, they had regular feeds of holcus, but that, as Said bin Salim
expressed himself, was only coffee to them. The Wanyamwezi asses,
however, managed to pick a sustenance from the rushes and from the
half-burned stubbles, when fortunate enough to find any. Sickness again
declared itself. Shahdad the Baloch bellowed like a bull with fever
pains, Gaetano complained that he was suffering tortures generally, two
of the Wanyamwezi were incapacitated by the symptoms preliminary to
small-pox from carrying their packs, and a third was prostrated by ague.
We started, however, on the next day for a long march which concluded,
the passage of the “Tamarind Hills.” Crossing a country broken by dry
nullahs, or rather ditches, we traversed a seam of forest with a deep
woody ravine on the right, and twice unpacked and reloaded the asses,
who lay down instead of breasting the difficulties: a muddy swamp full
of water-courses, and the high earth-banks of the Rufuta a Fiumara, here
dry during the hot season. Thence, winding along a hill-flank, to avoid
a bend in the bed, the path plunged into the sole of the Rufuta. This
main-drain of the lower gradients carries off, according to the guides,
the waters of the high ground around it into the Mgeta. The bed, which
varies from three to sixteen feet in breadth, serpentines abruptly
through the hills: its surface is either deep sand or clay, sopped with
water, which near the head becomes a thin fillet, ankle-deep, now sweet,
then salt: the mud is tinged in places with a solution of iron, showing,
when stagnant, prismatic and iridescent tints. Where narrowest, the tall
grasses of the banks meet across the gut, which, after a few yards of
short, sharp winding, opens out again. The walls are in some parts
earth, in others blocks of gray syenite, which here and there encumber
the bed: on the right, near the end of the stage, the hills above seem
to overhang the Fuimara in almost perpendicular masses of sandstone,
from whose chinks spring the gnarled roots of tall trees corded with
creepers, overgrown with parasites; and hung with fruits like footballs,
dangling from twines sometimes thirty feet long. The lower banks, where
not choked with rush, are overgrown with the brightest verdure, and with
the feathery bamboo rising and falling before the wind. The corpses of
porters were even more numerous than on the yester: our Muslems passed
them with averted faces and with the low “la haul!” of disgust, and a
decrepid old Mnyamwezi porter gazed at them and wept for himself. About
2 P.M., turning abruptly from the bed, we crawled up a short stony steep
strewed with our asses and their loads; and reaching the summit of a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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