The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
Rations had been issued at K’hutu to all hands for three days, the time
in which they expected to make the principal provisioning-place,
“Muhama.” They had consumed, as usual, their stores with the utmost
possible quickness; it was our fifth day, and Muhama was still a long
march distant. On the 13th August, therefore, in that hot haste which
promises cold speed, we loaded at dawn, and ascended the last step of
the pass by an easy path. The summit was thickly wooded; the hills were
crowned with trees; the ravines were a mass of tangled verdure; and from
the Dub (_Cynodon dactylon_, a nutritive and favourite food for cattle
in India) and other grasses arose a sickening odour of decay. A Scotch
mist, thick and raw, hung over the hill-tops, and about 10 P.M. a fiery
outburst of sunshine told severely upon hungry and fever-stricken men.
From the level table-summit of the range the route descended rapidly at
first, but presently stretching out into gentle slopes, totally unlike
the abrupt eastern or seaward face of the mountains: I counted twelve
distinct rises and fifteen falls, separated by tree-clad lines of
half-dried nullahs, which were choked with ill-savoured weeds. We halted
every quarter of an hour to raise and reload the asses; when on the
ground, they were invariably abandoned by the donkey-men. My companion’s
bedding was found near the path, where it had been left by its porter, a
slave given at Zungomero to Muinyi Wazira by his drunken brother. The
fellow had been sworn by his mganga, or medicine-man, not to desert, and
he had respected his oath for the long length of a week. A dispute with
another man, however, had irritated him: he quietly threw his burden,
and ran down the nearest steep, probably to fall into the hands of the
Wakwivi. As the rain-catching peaks were left behind, the slopes of dry
soil began to show sunburnt herbage and tufty grass. Signs of lions
appeared numerous, and the cactaceous and aloetic plants that live on
arid soil again met the eye. About noon we forded the little Zonhwe
River, a stream of sweet water here flowing westward, in a bed of mire
and grass, under high banks bearing a dense bush. Two hours afterwards I
suddenly came upon the advance-guard, halted, and the asses unloaded, in
a dry water-course, called in the map, from our misadventure, “Overshot
Nullah.” A caravan of Wanyamwezi had misdirected them, Muinyi Wazira had
in vain warned them of their error, he was overruled by Kidogo, and the
Baloch had insisted upon camping at the first place where they expected
to find a spring. Like all soft men, they were most impatient of thirst,
and nothing caused so much grumbling and discontent as the cry of “Maji
mb’hali!” (water is far!) That night, therefore, after a long march of
fifteen miles, they again slept supperless.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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