The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
No watch was kept by the Baloch at Márengá Mk’hali, though we were then
in the vicinity of the bandit Wahumba. On the next day we were harangued
by Kidogo, who proceeded to expound the principles that must guide us
through the unsafe regions ahead. The caravan must no longer straggle on
in its usual disorder, the van must stop short when separated from the
main body, and the rear must advance at the double when summoned by the
sound of the Barghumi, or the koodoo-horn, which acts as bugle in
Eastern Africa. I thought, at the time, that Kidogo might as well
address his admonitions to the wind, and I thought rightly.
The route lay through the lateral plain which separates the Mukondokwa
or second, from the Rubeho or third parallel range of the Usagara
Mountains. At Márengá, Mk’hali, situated as it is under the lee of the
two eastern walls, upon which the humid N. E. and S. E. trade-winds
impinge, the eye no longer falls, as before, upon a sheet of monotonous
green, and the nose is not offended by the death-like exhalations of a
pestilent vegetation. The dew diminishes, the morning-cloud is rare upon
the hill-top, and the stratus is not often seen in the valley; rain,
moreover, seldom falls heavily, except during its single appointed
season. The climate is said to be salubrious, and the medium elevation
of the land, 2500 feet, raises it high above the fatal fever-level,
without attaining the altitudes where dysentery and pleurisy afflict the
inhabitants. For many miles beyond Márengá Mk’hali water is rarely
found. Caravans, therefore, resort to what is technically called a
“Tirikeza,” or afternoon march. In the Kisawahili, or coast-language,
“ku Tirikeza,” or “Tilikeza,” and in Kinyamwezi, “ku Witekezea,” is the
infinitive of a neuter verb signifying “to march after noon-day”; by the
Arabs it is corrupted into a substantive. Similarly the verb ku honga,
to pay “dash”, tribute, passage-money, or blackmail, becomes in the
mouths of the stranger, ku honga, or Honga. The tirikeza is one of the
severest inflictions that African travelling knows. At 11 A.M.
everything is thrown into confusion, although two or three hours must
elapse before departure; loads are bound up, kitchen-batteries are
washed and packed, tents are thrown, and stools are carried off by
fidgeting porters and excited slaves. Having drunk for the last time,
and filled their gourds for the night, the wayfarers set out when the
midday ends. The sun is far more severely felt after the sudden change
from shade, than during the morning marches, when its increase of heat
is slow and gradual. They trudge under the fireball in the firmament,
over ground seething with glow and reek, through an air which seems to
parch the eyeballs, and they endure this affliction till their shadows
lengthen out upon the ground. The tirikeza is almost invariably a
lengthy stage, as the porters wish to abridge the next morning’s march,
which leads to water. It is often bright moonlight before they arrive at
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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