The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
[8] The Indian “khad” is the deep rocky drain in hilly countries, thus
differing from the popular idea of a “ravine,” and from the nullah,
which is a formation in more level lands.
The basin of Inenge lies at the foot of the Rubeho or “Windy Pass,” the
third and westernmost range of the Usagara Mountains. The climate, like
that of Rumuma, is ever in extremes--during the day a furnace, and at
night a refrigerator--the position is a funnel, which alternately
collects the fiery sunbeams and the chilly winds that pour down from the
misty highlands. The villagers of the settlements overlooking the
ravine, flocked down to barter their animals and grain. Here, for the
first time since our departure from the coast, honey, clarified butter,
and, greatest boon of all, milk, fresh and sour, were procurable. The
man who has been restricted to a diet so unwholesome as holcus and
bajri, with an occasional treat of kennel-food,--broth and beans,--will
understand that the first unexpected appearance of milk, butter, and
honey formed an epoch in our journey.
The halt was celebrated with abundant drumming and droning, which lasted
half the night; it served to cheer the spirits of the men, who had
talked of nothing the whole day but the danger of being attacked by the
Wahumba. On the next morning arrived a caravan of about 400 Wanyamwezi
porters marching to the coast, under the command of Isa bin Hijji and
three other Arab merchants. An interchange of civilities took place. The
Arabs lacking cloth could not feed their slaves and porters, who
deserted daily, imperilling a valuable investment in ivory. The
Europeans could afford a small contribution of three Gorah or pieces of
domestics: they received a present of fine white rice, a few pounds of
salt, and a goat, in exchange for a little perfumed snuff and
assafœtida, which after a peculiar infusion is applied to wounds, and
which, administered internally, is considered a remedy for many
complaints. I was allured to buy a few yards of rope, indispensable for
packing the animals. The number of our asses being reduced from thirty
to fifteen, and the porters from thirty-six to thirty, it was necessary
to recruit. The Arabs sold two Wanyamwezi animals for ten dollars each,
payable at Zanzibar. One proved valuable as a riding ass, and carried me
to the Central Lake, and back to Unyanyembe: the other, though caponized
and blind on the off-side, had become by bad treatment so obstinate and
so cleverly vicious, that the Baloch called him “Shaytan yek-cham,” or
the “one-eyed fiend:” he carried, besides sundries, four boxes of
ammunition, weighing together 160 pounds, and even under these he danced
like a deer. Nothing was against him but his character: after a few days
he was cast adrift in the wilderness of Mgunda M’khali, because no man
dared to load and lead him. Knowing that the Arab merchants upon this
line hold it a point of honour to discourage, by refusing a new
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