The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
At the third Rubeho we were delayed for a day--as is customary before a
“Tirikeza”--by the necessity of laying in supplies for a jungle march,
and by the quarrels of the men. The Baloch were cross as naughty
children, ever their case when cold and hungry: warm and full, they
become merry as crickets. The Kirangozi in hot wrath brought his flag to
Said bin Salim, and threatened to resign, because he had been preceded
on the last stage by two of the Baloch: his complaints of this highly
irregular proceeding were with difficulty silenced by force of beads. I
remarked, however, a few days afterwards, when travelling through Ugogo,
that the Kirangozi, considering himself in danger, applied to me for a
vanguard of matchlockmen. The sons of Ramji combined with the porters in
refusing to carry my companion, and had Bombay and Mabruki not shown
good-will, we might have remained a week in the acme of discomfort. The
asses, frightened by wild beasts, broke loose at night, and one was
lost. The atmosphere was ever in excesses of heat and cold: in the
morning, a mist so thick that it displayed a fog-rainbow--a segment of
an arch, composed of faint prismatic tints--rolled like a torrent down
the ravine in front: the sun, at noon, made us cower under the thin
canvas, and throughout the twenty-four hours a gale like a “vent de
bise,” attracted by the heat of the western plains, swept the encamping
ground.
Sending forward my invalid companion in his hammock, I brought up the
rear: Said bin Salim, who had waxed unusually selfish and surly,
furtively left to us the task; he wore only sandals--he could not travel
by night. Some of the Baloch wept at the necessity of carrying their
gourds and skins.
On the 17th September, about 2 P.M., we resumed the descent of the
rugged mountains. The path wound to the N.W. down the stony and bushy
crest of a ridge with a deep woody gap on the right hand: presently
after alternations of steep and step, and platforms patched with
odoriferous plants, it fell into the upper channel of the Mandama or the
Dungomaro, the “Devil’s Glen.” Dungomaro in Kisawahili is the proper
name of an evil spirit, not in the European but in the African
sense,--some unblessed ghost who has made himself unpopular to the
general;--perhaps the term was a facetiousness on the part of the sons
of Ramji.
It was a “via mala” down this great surface-drain of the western slopes,
over boulders and water-rolled stones reposing upon deep sand, and with
branches of thorny trees in places canopying the bed. After a march of
five hours, I found the porters bivouacking upon a softer spot, and with
difficulty persuaded four of the sons of Ramji to return and to assist
the weary stragglers: horns were sounded, and shots were fired to guide
the Baloch, who did not, however, arrive before 10 P.M.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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