The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
By Kidogo’s suggestion I had preferred the middle line through the
hundred miles of dreaded Ugogo: it was the beaten path, and infested
only by four Sultans, namely: 1. Myandozi of Kifukuru. 2. Magomba of
Kanyenye. 3. Maguru-Mafupi of K’hok’ho; and 4. Kibuya of Mdaburu. On the
1st October, 1857, we left the Ziwa late in the morning, and after
passing through the savannahs and the brown jungles of the lower levels,
where giraffe again appeared, the path crested a wave of ground and
debouched upon the table-land of Ugogo. The aspect was peculiar and
unprepossessing. Behind still towered in sight the Delectable Mountains
of Usagara, mist-crowned and robed in the lightest azure, with streaks
of a deep plum-colour, fronting the hot low land of Marenga Mk’hali,
whose tawny face was wrinkled with lines of dark jungle. On the north
was a tabular range of rough and rugged hill, above which rose three
distant cones pointed out as the haunts of the robber Wahumba: at its
base was a deep depression, a tract of brown brush patched with yellow
grass, inhabited only by the elephant, and broken by small outlying
hillocks. Southwards scattered eminences of tree-crowned rock rose a few
yards from the plain which extended to the front, a clearing of deep red
or white soil, decayed vegetation based upon rocky or sandy ground, here
and there thinly veiled with brown brush and golden stubbles: its
length, about four miles, was studded with square villages, and with the
stately but grotesque calabash. This giant is to the vegetable what the
elephant is to the animal world:--the Persians call it the
“practice-work of nature”--its disproportionate conical bole rests upon
huge legs exposed to view by the washing away of the soil, and displays
excrescences which in pious India would merit a coat of vermilion. From
the neck extend gigantic gnarled arms, each one a tree, whose thinnest
twig is thick as a man’s finger, and their weight causes them to droop
earthwards, giving to the outline the shape of a huge dome. In many
parts the unloveliness of its general appearance is varied by the
wrinkles and puckerings which, forming by granulation upon the oblongs
where the bark has been removed for fibre, give the base the appearance
of being chamfered and fluted; and often a small family of trunks, four
or five in number, springs from the same root. At that season all were
leafless; at other times they are densely foliaged, and contrasting with
their large timber and with their coarse fleshy leaf, they are adorned
with the delicatest flowers of a pure virgin-white, which, opening at
early dawn, fade and fall before eventide. The babe-tree issues from the
ground about one foot in diameter: in Ugogo, however, all those observed
were of middle age. The young are probably grubbed up to prevent their
encumbering the ground, and when decayed enough to be easily felled,
they are converted into firewood. By the side of these dry and leafless
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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