The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
These three routes pass through the heart of the great desert and
elephant-ground “Mgunda Mk’hali”--explained by the Arabs to mean in
Kinyamwezi, the Fiery “Shamba” or Field. Like Marenga Mk’hali, it is a
desert, because it contains no running water nor wells, except after
rain. The name is still infamous, but its ill-fame rests rather upon
tradition than actuality; in fact, its dimensions are rapidly shrinking
before the torch and axe. About fifteen years ago it contained twelve
long stages, and several tirikeza; now it is spanned in eight marches.
The wildest part is the first half from Mdáburu to Jiwe lá Mkoa, and
even here, it is reported, villages of Wakimbu are rising rapidly on the
north and south of the road. The traveller, though invariably threatened
with drought and the death of cattle, will undergo little hardship
beyond the fatigue of the first three forced marches through the “Fiery
Field;” in fact, he will be agreeably surprised by its contrast with the
desert of Marenga Mk’hali.
From east to west the diagonal breadth of Mgunda Mk’hali is 140 miles.
The general aspect is a dull uniform bush, emerald-coloured during the
rains, and in the heats a network of dry and broom-like twigs. Except
upon the banks of nullahs--“rivers” that are not rivers--the trees, as
in Ugogo, wanting nutriment, never afford timber, and even the calabash
appears stunted. The trackless waste of scrub, called the “bush” in
Southern Africa, is found in places alternating with thin gum-forest;
the change may be accounted for by the different depths of water below
the level of the ground. It is a hardy vegetation of mimosas and gums
mixed with evergreen succulent plants, cactaceæ, aloes, and euphorbias:
the grass, sometimes tufty, at other times equally spread, is hard and
stiff; when green it feeds cattle, and when dry it is burned in places
by passing caravans to promote the growth of another crop.
The groundwork of Mgunda Mk’hali is a detritus of yellowish quartz, in
places white with powdered felspar, and, where vegetation decays,
brown-black with humus. Water-worn pebbles are sprinkled over the earth,
and the vicinity of Fiumaras abounds in a coarse and modern
sandstone-conglomerate. Upon the rolling surface, and towering high
above the tallest trees, are based the huge granitic and syenitic
outcrops before alluded to. The contrast between the masses and the
dwarf rises which support them at once attracts the eye. Here and there
the long waves that diversify the land appear in the far distance like
blue lines bounding the nearer superficies of brown or green. Throughout
this rolling table-land the watershed is to the south. In rare places
the rains stagnate in shallow pools, which become systems of mud-cakes
during the drought. At this season water is often unprocurable in the
Fiumaras, causing unaccustomed hardships to caravans, and death to those
beasts which, like the elephant and the buffalo, cannot long exist
without drinking.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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