The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
--and dotted over with morsels of fowl, so boiled that they shredded
like yarn under the teeth. This repast again concluded with a bowl of
sweetened milk, and other entremets, for which both hosts amply
apologised; the house had lately been burned down, and honey had been
used instead of sugar. The day concluded with prayers, with a seance in
the verandah and with drinking fresh milk out of gourds--a state of
things which again demanded excuses. A multitude of “Washenzi” thronged
into the house, especially during the afternoon, to gaze at the Muzungu.
I was formally presented to the Sultan Kafrira, a tall and wrinkled
elder, celebrated for ready wits and spear. The sons of Ramji had often
looked in at the door whilst preparations for feeding were going on, but
they were not asked to sit down: the haughty host had provided them with
a lean goat, in return for which they privily expressed an opinion that
he was a “dog.” Masud, boasting of his intimacy with the Sultan
Msimbira, whose subjects had plundered our portmanteau, offered on
return to Unyanyembe his personal services in ransoming it. I accepted
with joy; but the Shaykh Masud, as afterwards proved, nearly “left his
skin” in the undertaking.
The climate of Kíríra is called by the Arabs a medicine. They vaunt its
virtues, which become apparent after the unhealthy air of Kazeh, and
after a delicious night spent in the cool barzah, I had no reason to
question its reputation. I arose in the morning wonderfully refreshed,
and Valentine, who had been prostrated with fever throughout the day,
became another man. Yet the situation was apparently unpropitious; the
Gombe Nullah, the main drain of this region, a line of stagnant pools,
belted with almost impassable vegetation, lies hard by, and the
background is an expanse of densest jungle.
Three short and eventless marches through thick jungle, with scattered
clearings, led me, on the 30th December, to the district of Msene, where
the dense wild growth lately traversed suddenly opens out and discloses
to the west a broad view of admirable fertility. Before entering the
settlements, the caravan halted, as usual, to form up. We then
progressed with the usual pomp and circumstance; the noise was terrific,
and the streets, or rather the spaces between the houses, were lined
with Negroid spectators. I was led to the Tembe of one Saadullah, a
low-caste Msawahili, and there found my companion looking but poorly.
Gaetano, his “boy,” was so excited by the scene, that he fell down in a
fit closely resembling epilepsy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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