The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
The Lake Regions of Central Africa: A Picture of Exploration, Vol. 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Africa, Central -- Description and travel
Water abounds even at a distance from
the rivers; it springs from the soil in diminutive runnels and lies in
“shimo” or pits, varying from surface-depth to 10 feet. The
monsoon-rains, which are heavy, commence in March, about a month earlier
than in Zanzibar, and the duration is similar. The climate of the higher
lands is somewhat superior to that of the valley, but it is still hot
and oppressive. The formation, after passing from the corallines, the
limestones, the calcareous tuffs, and the rude gravelly conglomerates of
the coast, is purely primitive and sandstone: erratic blocks of fine
black hornblende and hornblendic rock, used by the people as whetstones
and grinding-slabs, abound in the river-beds, which also supply the clay
used for pottery. The subsoil is near the sea a stiff blue loam, in the
interior a ruddy quartzose gravel; the soil is a rich brown or black
humus, here and there coated with, or varied by, clean white sand, and
in some parts are seams of reddish loam. Fresh-water shells are
scattered over the surface, and land-crabs burrow in the looser earths
where stone seldom appears. Black cattle are unknown in the maritime
region, but poultry, sheep, and goats are plentiful: near the jungle
they are protected from the leopards or ounces by large wooden huts,
like cages, raised on piles for cleanliness.
As a rule, the fluviatile valleys resemble in most points the physical
features of the coast and island of Zanzibar: the general aspect of the
country, however--the expression of its climate--undergoes some
modifications. Near the sea, the basin is a broad winding line,
traversed by the serpentine river, whose bed is now too deep for change.
About the middle expanse stony ridges and rocky hills crop out from the
rolling ground, and the head of the valley is a low continuous plain. In
many places, especially near the estuary, river-terraces, like road
embankments, here converging, there diverging, indicate by lines and
strews of water-worn pebbles and sea-shells the secular uprise of the
country and the declension of the stream to its present level. These
raised seabeaches at a distance appear crowned with dwarf rounded cones
which, overgrown with lofty trees, are favourite sites for settlements.
In the lower lands the jungle and the cultivation are of the rankest and
most gigantic description, the effect of a damp, hot region, where
atmospheric pressure is excessive. The grass, especially that produced
by the black soils in the swamps and marshes, rises to the height of
12-13 feet, and serves to conceal runaway slaves and malefactors: the
stalks vary in thickness from a goose-quill to a man’s finger. The
larger growths, which are so closely planted that they conceal the soil,
cannot be traversed without paths, and even where these exist the
traveller must fight his way through a dense screen, receiving from time
to time a severe blow when the reeds recoil, or a painful thrust from
some broken and inclined stump.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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