The Land of Desolation: Being a Personal Narrative of Observation and Adventure in GreenlandHayes, I. I. (Isaac Israel)
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The Land of Desolation: Being a Personal Narrative of Observation and Adventure in Greenland
Hayes, I. I. (Isaac Israel)
Greenland -- Description and travel; Hayes, I. I. (Isaac Israel), 1832-1881
I have spoken of the glacier front as a wall, a cliff, and a
coast-line. As a coast-line it is winding; as a wall or cliff it is
perfectly vertical; but it is far from smooth. On the contrary, it
presents the most fantastic collection of forms that can be conceived
of—caves that are apparently limitless, peaks like church spires
in symmetry, Gothic arches, clefts that wind away until they are
lost in deep blue. And in this blue we see the most perfect of all
transparent hues, changing too with every moment, and subtle as the
colors of the opal. Talk of painting it! the “light of a dark eye in
woman” would not be more difficult. The green of the caves is not
less subtle, nor less beautiful. This green is observed wherever the
ice overhangs the water. In the sunlight the surface is pure white,
except where there has occurred a recent fracture; and the effect
is that of the most delicate satin, in all its changes of surface,
produced by the different angles in which the light is reflected to
the eye.
We enjoyed a most excellent opportunity of observing all these
phenomena while passing over, as we went only at half speed, and
spent almost an hour in reaching the opposite side. Near the centre,
and not far from the front of the glacier, we found the deepest
water, the color of which changed, soon after passing the centre,
from a light green to a dirty brown. The cause of this was soon
explained. The eastern side of the valley, in which the glacier
rests, is much deeper than the other side, and the waters from the
surface of the _mer de glace_, and the glacier itself, which find
their way down through the chasms, gather in the deepest portion of
the valley, and, rushing on over the rocks beneath the ice, reach,
finally, the front of the glacier, where they bubble up like a
huge, seething caldron—a Stygian pool of fearful aspect. This muddy
water discolors that side of the fiord all the way to the sea; a
circumstance which I was quite at a loss to account for until I had
actually witnessed the cause of it, and seen the _Panther_ carried,
by the force of the current, bodily off from the glacier against the
action of her helm.
I have mentioned the irregularity of the line of the glacier front.
It presented numerous projecting angles. Near the centre, it forms
almost a right angle. Thus do we observe how much more rapidly the
centre of the glacier moves than its sides.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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