I looked up and saw what at first sight appeared like a cluster of
rabbit-skins hung up to dry: they were flying foxes. I looked round,
and found almost every tree similarly adorned. But for an occasional
movement of the head, or the winking of an eye, one might have imagined
they were dead, they remained so still. The sportsman was very eager to
fire into the group, being only deterred from so doing by the fear of
their being fetish, and while he was endeavouring to satisfy himself on
this point I went away.
The inhabitants of Badagry are apparently a very religious people,
for I do not remember ever to have seen so many fetishes of different
sorts in so small a town. Scattered generally about the streets and
courtyards are hundreds of small sheds, open in front, with thatched
roofs and bamboo walls. Each of these contains a graceful figure,
fashioned of clay into a semblance of the human form; and the faces of
these gods are fearfully and wonderfully made. The eyes are represented
by large cowries, the hair by feathers, and the gash which takes the
place of the mouth is garnished with the teeth of dogs, sharks, goats,
leopards, and men. A nose was too great a flight of genius for the
native sculptors, and they had satisfied themselves by boring two
little holes for nostrils and leaving the rest of the organ to be
understood. I noticed one deity whose head was covered with the red
tail-feathers of parrots, and the captain of the steamer said that the
people had put this up after having seen a red-haired trader who had
once paid them a visit.
While wandering about I discovered a thick growth of trees and bushes
inclosed with a bamboo fence; this was the great fetish-ground of
Badagry, and I proceeded to pull down a piece of the fence, and look
in. I saw inside the usual heap of rubbish, broken pots, broken knives,
broken stools, and human skulls, and, in addition, spear-heads, arrows,
and bamboo shields. I thought I would like to take a few of these
things away as curios, and had begun pulling down more of the fence,
so that I might pass through, when I was disturbed by hearing somebody
shout:
“Heigh, you there! You bess stop that.”
I looked round and observed a negro, attired in European apparel,
rapidly coming towards me. He seemed very much alarmed, and said:
“These people here are very partic’lar ’bout their fetish. If they was
to see you now they would kill you p’raps.”
I said--“Bosh: this town belongs to the English.”
“I tell you for true, Sir. Myself I’m Christian like you: I follow
the Lord; I don’t care for fetish. But these people here are very
bad people, very partic’lar. If they see you, you will catch plenty
trouble.”
I suffered myself to be persuaded and went away to have lunch with the
Commandant. During the meal I said what a pity it was I could not get
some of those arrows and spear-heads out of the inclosure. He seemed
surprised and asked:
“What is there to prevent you?”
“Why, the natives would make a row.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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