In 1876 Pepple returned to England to try his old plan of obtaining
goods on credit, and was again treated as a great African potentate,
being entertained by the Lord Mayor, and his daily doings being duly
chronicled by the press. He has lately been released from the durance
vile in which his subjects had been keeping him on account of some
misdemeanour, but is still under a cloud, as his peculiarities are so
well known, and he is treated with but scant ceremony by the natives
and traders of Bonny river. As an instance of how little African
royalty is in consonance with European, I may mention that Pepple’s
eldest son was, until very recently, post-master at Accra with a salary
of some 50_l._ a year.
Bonny-town is the worst and dirtiest to be found on the West Coast of
Africa; the houses are small “wattle and daub” structures, and there
are no streets even of the poor description that are found in towns on
the Gold Coast. The huts are scattered about in indescribable confusion
amongst pools of mud, heaps of refuse, and cess-pits; and one cannot
walk more than a few hundred yards in any given direction without
finding a bar to further progress in the shape of a muddy creek. The
Bonny traders do not often honour the town with their presence, nor is
there any inducement for them to do so. The Ju-ju house is the only
“sight” in Bonny. It is a mud hut in a ruinous condition, in which,
piled up in wattle racks, are innumerable human skulls, the remains of
persons who have been sacrificed to the Ju-ju, or fetish. A glimpse of
these, and of a number of rudely-carved wooden idols, can be obtained
by peeping through an aperture in the broken-down wall of the house;
and even this must be done by stealth, as the natives do not care to
have white men prying into the mysteries of their religion; and, being
quite an independent people, they could inflict any fine or punishment
they might think proper on an inquisitive stranger.
The few acres on which Bonny-town is built, a sandy strip at Rough
Corner at the eastern entrance of the river, and about two acres on
Peterside, opposite Bonny-town, is all the dry land to be found within
miles; all else is interminable mangrove swamp, intersected with
creeks, to which the sharks from the river-bar come to breed. Should
a man fall overboard in Bonny river he is never seen again after the
first plunge, and it is supposed that there is a powerful under-current
which tows the body under, though others ascribe its disappearance to
the ubiquitous sharks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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