The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Science
The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Hejaz (Saudi Arabia) -- Description and travel
We landed, after an hour's row in the gig, at the central or main
line of palms; and on the banks of Wady Dahab, here a full mile
wide, we found the works of man, like those of Nature, a copy of
Makná. The date trees and clumps are hedge-closed; two scatters
of 'Ushash (tabernacles) show round towers of rough stone, broken
and patched with palm-frond; and, further north of the Golden
Valley, a few old Arab graves have been weathered into mere heaps
of large stones. These are the Kubur el-Nasárá ("Nazarene's
Graves") of Burckhardt,[EN#122] a name apparently forgotten by
the present generation. We vainly sought and asked after ruins:
of old, however, "Dí'zahab" might have served to disembark cargo
which, by taking the land-route northwards, as the Christian
pilgrims still do from El-Nuwaybi', would avoid the dangerous
headwaters of El-'Akabah. Nor could we believe with
Pococke[EN#123] that the place derived its name from the mica
shining like gold; his theory is stultified by the fact that mica
is by no means a prominent feature, even had the Ancients been so
ignorant as to be deceived by it.
The people were by no means communicative. An elderly man, with a
red turban and sword by side, hurried away from us when we
addressed him, leaving his middle-aged wife to follow with a babe
on shoulder and a boy in hand: she also refused to speak, waving
her hand by way of reply to every question. At last a
semi-civilized being, acquainted with the Convent of St.
Catherine, Selím bin Husayn, of the Muzaynah tribe, satisfied our
curiosity in view of tobacco, and offered a rudely stuffed
ibex-head for a shilling. In the evening our fishermen visited
the reef, which supplied admirable rock-cod, a bream (?) called
Sultan el-Bahr, and Marján (a Sciæna); but they neglected the
fine Sirinjah ("sponges"), which here grow two feet long. The
night was dark and painfully still, showing nought but the
youngest of moons, and the gloomiest silhouettes of spectral
mountains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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