The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Science
The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Hejaz (Saudi Arabia) -- Description and travel
The first sign of a change of formation appeared near the "Lower
(southern) Nuwaybi'" ("the Little Spring"), which the chart calls
"Wasit." Here the shore shows blots of dead-white and mauve-red,
in which our engineer at once detected quartz. Seeing it
prolonged in straight horizontal lines, and the red overlying the
white, I suspected kaolin and the normal Tauá (coloured clays):
my conjecture was confirmed on the next day. Hereabouts, Wellsted
(ii. 151) also remarked the colouring of the hills, which
resemble those of "Sherm;" some of a deep-blue tinge, and others
streaked with a brilliant red and violet. We then doubled a long
sandspit running out to sea eastward, and forming, on the north,
a deep bay well protected from the souther; whilst several lines
of reef and shallow to the north defend it from the angry Bora.
This anchorage is known to the pilots as "Wásit;" and it occupies
the southern half of the bay, the northern half and its
palm-groves being called the "Upper Nuwaybi'." About "Wásit" the
date-palms are scattered, and the large sand-drifts ever threaten
to bury them alive. Behind it yawns the great gash, "Wady Watír,"
which shows its grand lines even from the opposite side of the
gulf: this is the route by which Christian pilgrims from Syria
make the Sinai monastery, rounding on camels the northern end of
El-'Akabah. The main valley receives from the north the Wady
el-'Ayn, which can be reached in half a day. From the south,
distant one whole march, comes the Wady el-Hazrah. This is
doubtless the Hazeroth of the Exodus, meaning the fenced
enclosures of a pastoral people; and a modern traveller figures
and describes it as "the most beautiful and romantic landscape in
the Desert." At least, so said the lately shipped guide, Mabru'k
ibn Sulayyim el-Muzayni.
After a run of six hours and thirty minutes (= thirty miles), we
cast anchor off Wásit: there was nothing to see ashore, save some
wretched Muzaynah, two males and three females, helpmates meet
for them, living like savages on fish and shell-molluscs;
drinking brackish water, and sleeping in the "bush," rather than
take the trouble to repair the huts. They have no sheep, but a
few camels; and, by way of boats, they use catamarans composed of
two palm-trunks: their home-made hooks resemble the schoolboy's
crooked pin. Yet these starvelings would not fetch specimens of
the white stuff, distant, perhaps, two direct miles of cross-cut,
seen near Nuwaybi', and still visible. They also refused, without
preliminary "bakhshísh," to show or even to tell where certain
ruins, concerning which they spoke or romanced, are found in
their hills. And yet there are theologians who would raise
Poverty, the most demoralizing of all conditions, to the rank of
an "ecclesiastical virtue."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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