The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Science
The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Hejaz (Saudi Arabia) -- Description and travel
Under the guidance of our new acquaintances, we rowed to the site
of Elath, which evidently extended all round the Gulf-head from
north-east to north-west. Linant and Laborde ("Voyage de l'Arabie
Petrée," etc., Paris, 1830) confine it to the western shore, near
the mouth of the Wady el-'Arabah, and make Ezion-geber to face it
as suggested by the writings of the Hebrews. Disembarking at the
northern palm-clump, we inspected El-Dár, the old halting-place
of the pilgrim-caravan before New 'Akabah was founded. The only
ruins[EN#133] are large blocks under the clearest water, and off
a beach of the softest sand, which would make the fortune of a
bathing-place in Europe. Further eastward lies an enclosed
date-orchard called El-Hammám: the two pits in it are said to be
wells, but I suspect the treasure-seeker. Inland and to the north
rise the mounds and tumuli, the sole remains of ancient Elath,
once the port of Petra, which is distant only two dromedary
marches. During rain-floods the site is an island: to the west
flows the surface-water of the Wady el-'Arabah, and eastward the
drainage of the Wady Yitm has dug a well-defined bed. A line of
larger heaps to the north shows where, according to the people,
ran the city wall: finding it thickly strewed with scoriae, old
and new, I decided that this was the Siyághah or "smiths'
quarter." Between it and the sea the surface is scattered with
glass, shards, and slag: I inquired in vain for "written stones,"
and for the petroleum reported to exist in the neighbourhood.
Shaykh Mohammed declared that of old a chain stretched from the
Pharaohnic island-castle to the Jebel el-Burayj or Kasr el-Bedawi
on the Midianite shore: this chain is a lieu commun of Eastern
legends. The "Bedawi's Castle" is mentioned by Robinson and
Burckhardt ("Syria," p. 510), as lying one hour south of
El-'Akabah. Moreover, the Wady Yitm, whose upper bed shows two
ruins, was closed, at the narrow above the mouth, by a fortified
wall of stone and lime, thus cutting off all intercourse with the
interior. The Bedawin declare it to be the work of King Hadíd
(Iron), who thus kept out the Bení Hilál of El-Nejd. We were
shown large earth-dams, thrown across the embouchure of the
torrent to prevent the floods injuring the palm-groves of New
'Akabah. These may date from ancient days, when the old city here
extended its south-eastern suburb; as usual, they have become a
cemetery, modern and Moslem; and on the summit of the largest the
holy Shaykh el-Girmí (Jirmí) still names his ruined tomb.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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