The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Science
The Land of Midian (Revisited) — Volume 1
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir, 1821-1890; Hejaz (Saudi Arabia) -- Description and travel
I had proposed to march upon the Hismá, or sandy plateau to the
east, which can be made from Magháir Shu'ayb without the
mortification of a Nakb, or ladder of stone. Thereupon our
Tagaygát-Huwaytát Shaykhs and camel-men began to express great
fear of the 'Imran-Huwaytát, refusing to enter their lands
without express leave and the presence of a Ghafír ("surety").
Our caravan-leader, the gallant Sayyid, at once set off in search
of 'Brahim bin Makbúl, second chief of the 'Imrán, and recognized
by the Egyptian Government as the avocat, spokesman and
diplomatist, the liar and intriguer of his tribe. This man was
found near El-Hakl (Hagul), two long marches ahead: he came in
readily enough, holding in hand my kerchief as a pledge of
protection, and accompanied by three petty chiefs, Musallam,
Sa'd, and Muhaysin, all with an eye to "bakhshísh." In fact,
every naked-footed "cousin," a little above the average clansman,
would call himself a Shaykh, and claim his Musháhirah, or monthly
pay; not a cateran came near us but affected to hold himself
dishonoured if not provided at once with the regular salary.
'Brahim was wholly beardless, and our Egyptians quoted their
proverb, Sabáh el-Kurúd, wa lá Sabán el-'Ajrúd--"Better (see
ill-omened) monkeys in the morning than the beardless man." As
the corruption of the best turns to the worst, so the Bedawi, a
noble race in its own wilds, becomes thoroughly degraded by
contact with civilization. I remember a certain chief of the Wuld
Ali tribe, near Damascus, who was made a Freemason at Bayrút, and
the result was that "brother" Mohammed became a model villain.
By way of payment for escort and conveyance to the Hismá, 'Brahim
expected a recognition of his claim upon the soil of Magháir
Shu'ayb, which belongs to the wretched Masá'id. He held the true
Ishmaelitic tenet, that as Sayyidná (our Lord) Ádam had died
intestate, so all men (Arabs) have a right to all things,
provided the right can be established by might. Hence the saying
of the Fellah, "Shun the Arab and the itch." Thus encouraged by
the Shaykhs, the "dodges" of the clansmen became as manifold as
they were palpable. They wanted us to pay for camping-ground;
they complained aloud when we cut a palm-frond for palms, or used
a rotten fallen trunk for fuel. They made their sheep appear fat
by drenching them with water. The people of the Fort el-Muwaylah,
determined not to déroger, sent to us, for sale, the eggs laid by
our own fowls. And so forth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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