Now Vasili Blazhenny is typical of all Moscow, the Kremlin included. It
is the spirit of curious variety, of rich fantasy, the spirit of the
South and the East which rules here. The snow one feels to be almost out
of place, so Southern is the character of the city. The Kremlin, too,
before which we now stand, is a "free-act" work of art, a piece
something like the San Marco quarter in Venice, if one thinks of the sea
as removed. For the Kremlin must not be thought of as a palace is; it is
a whole part of a city, surrounded by a wall twenty metres high, two
kilometres long, enclosing an irregular pentagon. It lies on a rather
steeply rising hill on the bank of the Moskva, and commands the whole
region round about. Its beauty is not to be enjoyed in the interior of
the many churches, palaces, and barracks, although there is enough worth
seeing there, too. It only opens up from the balcony of the Ivan Veliky
tower, or from the bastion where the colossal monument of Alexander
stands. But the most beautiful view of the whole complex is from the far
bank of the Moskva, where the high wall, with its countless towers and
cupolas, seems like the birth of an Oriental dream-fantasy. It shines
and lightens in all colors, looks into the air, and speaks kindly
greetings to all below; one could simply sit and clap one's hands for
joy. But to the Russian this little jewel-box is by no means a
plaything. On the contrary, he very respectfully bares his head and
ceases not to cross himself. For "above Moscow is only the Kremlin, and
above the Kremlin is only heaven." Within, however, the muzhik regains
his childlikeness, and when he stands before the enormous cannon--"the
Czar of Cannon," an old bronze gun--he invariably climbs upon the
pyramid of giant balls which stands before it, climbs aloft and gapes
into the yard-wide mouth of the gun. And under no circumstances does he
neglect to creep into the hole of the "Queen of the Bells," which is in
front of the Ivan Veliky, in which there is room for two hundred people.
We who are not childlike muzhiks may not allow ourselves such
diversions; we must conscientiously see all the wonders of this greatest
of all rarities, a thing which will consume at least a day. We spare the
reader our experiences. Even the treasure-chamber with the coronation
insignia and jewels big as one's fist cannot inveigle us into a
description--all that could be seen in Berlin or Vienna.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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