The Land of the Boxers; or, China under the AlliesCasserly, Gordon
History
The Land of the Boxers; or, China under the Allies
Casserly, Gordon
China -- Description and travel
At the polo ground the city ends at present; though every day its
limits are extending. From here the road runs along close to the sea,
protected from the waves by a wall, and clinging to the flanks of
the hills. It passes an occasional row of Chinese‐occupied houses,
a lone hotel or two, the site of the immense new docks in process
of construction, large sugar works, with a colony of houses for its
employees, and an overhead wire tramway leading to their sanatorium
on the high peak above, until it reaches the Lyeemoon Pass. Here the
hills narrow in and press down to the sea, thrusting themselves forward
to meet the hills of the mainland on the other side. A strait, only
a quarter of a mile broad, separates them; and here on either hand,
high above the water, stand modern and well‐armed forts, which, with a
Brennan torpedo, effectually close the narrow entrance of the harbour
to any hostile ships that venture to force a passage.
Thus ends the northern and more important side of the island. On
the southern and ocean‐ward shore lie the ill‐fated and practically
deserted towns of Stanley and Aberdeen, where many years ago the
British troops garrisoning them were so decimated by fever and disease
that this side of the island was abandoned, and Victoria has become
practically Hong Kong.
The Peak is altogether another world from the city that lies in the
steamy atmosphere below. Let us ascend in one of the trams that are
dragged up to the summit by the wire cables. Seated in the car, we are
drawn up rapidly at a weird and uncomfortable angle; for the slope of
the line is, in places, 1 in 2. Up the steep sides of the hill we go,
feeling a curious sensation as we are tilted back on the benches and
see the trees and houses on each side all leaning over at an absurd
angle. Even such a respectable structure as a church seems to be lying
back towards the hillside in a tipsy and undignified manner. This
curious optical effect is caused by the inclined position of the roof
and floor, as well as of the passengers, with the horizontal. We pass
over a bridge across a pretty road lined with stone villas, by large
and well‐built houses that grow fewer and fewer as we mount upward.
Here and there we stop at a small platform representing a station,
where passengers come on or leave the tram. The down car passes us
with a rush. The long ridge of the Peak, crowned with houses, comes
into view. Turning round in our slanting seats we look down on the
rapidly diminishing city and the harbour, now a thousand feet below
us. At last we reach the summit and step out on a platform with
waiting‐rooms, the terminus of the line. Now we see how the wire cable
runs on over pulleys into the engine‐house and is wound round the huge
iron drums.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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