The Land of the Boxers; or, China under the AlliesCasserly, Gordon
History
The Land of the Boxers; or, China under the Allies
Casserly, Gordon
China -- Description and travel
Along the ridge the road passes by large and well‐built villas,
barracks, the Peak Club, a church, and many boarding‐houses. The
European inhabitants of Hong Kong are rapidly abandoning the lower
levels and taking up their residence here, where the climate, with its
cool and refreshing breezes, is delightful in the long summer when
Victoria swelters in tropical heat. During the rainy season, however,
the Peak is continually shrouded in damp mists; and fires are required
to keep rooms and spare garments dry. The saying in Hong Kong is: “If
you live on the Peak your clothes rot; if in Victoria _you_ do. Choose
which you value more and take up your habitation accordingly.”
The cable tramway is a comparatively recent institution; so that when
the houses on the summit were being built all the materials had to be
carried by coolies up a steep, zigzagging road from below. Even now
most of the supplies for the dwellers on the heights are brought up
in the same primitive and laborious fashion. In the morning the trams
are crowded with European merchants, bankers, solicitors and their
clerks, descending to their offices in the city. In the afternoon they
are filled with the gay butterflies of society going up or down to
pay calls, shop, or play tennis and croquet at the Ladies’ Recreation
Ground, half‐way between the Peak and Victoria. The red coats of
British soldiers are seen in the cars after parade hours or at night,
when they are hurrying back to barracks before tattoo.
The harbour of Hong Kong is remarkable for the large “floating
population” of Chinese, who live in sampans and seldom go ashore
except to purchase provisions. Their boats are small, generally not
twenty feet in length, with a single mast, decked, and provided with
a small well, covered with a hood, where passengers sit. Under the
planking of the deck, in a tiny space without ventilation, with only
room to lie prone, the crew—consisting, perhaps, of a dozen men,
women, and children—sleep. Their cooking is done with a brazier or
wood fire placed on a flat stone in the bows. The children tumble about
the deck unconcernedly in the roughest weather. The smaller ones are
occasionally tied to the mast to prevent them from falling overboard.
The babies are bound in a bundle behind the shoulders of the mothers,
who pull their oars or hoist and lower the sail with their burdens
fastened on to them. Thus they live, thus they die; never sleeping on
land until their corpses are brought ashore to be buried amid much
exploding of crackers and burning of joss‐sticks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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