The Land of the Boxers; or, China under the AlliesCasserly, Gordon
History
The Land of the Boxers; or, China under the Allies
Casserly, Gordon
China -- Description and travel
Outside the principal entrance stands a fine specimen of those curious
Chinese structures, half gateway, half triumphal arch. The lower
portion was of stone, the superstructure of wood. It was crowned
with three small towers, roofed with yellow tiles, and painted with
gaudy designs in glaring colours. On either side, on stone pedestals,
were enormous lions that looked like the nightmare creations of a
demon‐possessed artist. On passing through the front gate, we found
ourselves in a paved courtyard surrounded by low, one‐storied temples
standing on raised verandahs. In the centre was a double‐roofed
square belfry with a small gate in each side. On entering the court
we were at once surrounded by a clamorous crowd of shaven‐headed,
yellow‐robed men of a villainous type of countenance. These were the
famous—or infamous—Buddhist monks. Their dress consisted of a long,
yellow linen gown, confined at the waist by a sash, trousers, white
socks, and felt‐soled shoes. A more repulsive set of scoundrels I have
never seen. Their former truculence was now replaced by a cringing
servility. They crowded round us, demanding alms, or, holding out
handfuls of small coins, offered to change our good silver dollars
into bad five‐and ten‐cent pieces. Since Buddhism has ceased to be the
fashionable religion in China, its ministers have fallen upon evil
times, and subsist on charity and the offerings of the comparatively
few followers of their creed. So visitors are vociferously assailed for
alms; and the wily monks, with a keen eye to business, had hit upon the
idea of making a little money by tendering small coins of a debased
currency in change for good silver pieces. Shouldering the clamorous
crowd aside, our interpreter seized on one ancient priest to act as
our guide. This worthy cleric aided us to drive off his importunate
fellows, and led us through several courts to the principal temple.
Like all the other buildings around, it was covered with a quaint,
yellow‐tiled roof, and on the corners of the gables and the projecting
eaves were weird porcelain monsters; while below hung small bells,
which clanked dismally when moved by the wind. The temple was high and
the interior particularly large and lofty; for it contained a colossal
image of Buddha, seated in the traditional posture, with crossed legs
and hands holding the lotus flower and other sacred emblems. On its
face was the abstracted expression of weary calm that is supposed
to represent the attainment of Nirvana—content. Stairs led up to
galleries passing round the interior of the building to the level of
the head of the deity, so that one could gaze into his countenance at
close range. The statue is not so large or artistically so meritorious
as the similar images of Daibutsu at Kamakura or Hiogo in Japan,
each of which is hollow and contains a temple in its interior. On the
walls of the staircase, ranged on shelves, were thousands of little
clay gods, crudely fashioned and painted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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