The lands of silence : $b A history of Arctic and Antarctic explorationMarkham, Clements R. (Clements Robert), Sir
History
The lands of silence : $b A history of Arctic and Antarctic exploration
Markham, Clements R. (Clements Robert), Sir
Polar regions -- Discovery and exploration
Wrangell was much struck by the wonderful skill displayed by the
sledge drivers in finding their way by the wave-like ridges of snow
formed by the wind. These, formed on the level sea ice by any wind
of long continuance, are called _sastrugi_ in Siberia. The ridges
always indicate the quarter from which the prevailing winds blow. The
inhabitants of the _tundras_ often travel over several hundred miles
with no other guide than these _sastrugi_. They know by experience at
what angle they must cross the greater and lesser waves of snow in
order to arrive at their destination, and they never err. It often
happens that the true permanent _sastrugi_ have been obliterated by
temporary winds, but the traveller is not deceived. His practised eye
detects the change, he carefully removes the recently drifted snow, and
corrects his course by the lower _sastrugi_, and by the angle formed by
the two.
On his third journey, Wrangell started northwards from the coast on
March 16th, 1822, chiefly with the object of ascertaining the truth of
a native rumour that there was high land in that direction. But again,
after travelling for many days through ranges of hummocks, showing
there must have been heavy ice pressure during the winter, he came to
weak unsafe ice at a distance of 170 miles from the land. He was away
55 days and went over 900 miles, a little over 16 miles a day. May 5th
saw them back at Nijni Kolymsk.
The fourth journey was begun on March 14th, 1823. At Cape Chelagskoi
a Tchuktche chief told Wrangell that, on a clear summer’s day,
snow-covered mountains might be descried at a great distance to the
north, and that herds of reindeer sometimes came across the ice,
probably from thence. The natives concurred in stating that Cape Jakan
was the nearest point to this northern land. Wrangell struck off to the
north when he had gone a little way beyond Cape Chelagskoi. A violent
gale came on, and cracked and broke up the ice, placing the party in
considerable danger. They only succeeded in crossing the cracks owing
to the incredibly swift pace of the dogs. Wrangell was obliged to turn
back at a distance of only 70 miles from the land. Even then the men
had to ferry themselves across many cracks on pieces of ice, the dogs
swimming and towing, the temperature of the sea being +28° Fahr. This
was in the end of March. Lanes of water were opening in all directions
and, without a boat, the little party was placed in a position of
extreme danger. The gale dashed the pieces of ice together with a loud
crashing noise, and broke some of the floes into fragments. The dogs
alone saved them. Land was reached on the 27th March, and Wrangell
continued the coast survey for some time longer, returning to Nijni
Kolymsk on May 10th, after an absence of 78 days, having travelled over
1530 miles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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